City Guide: Best of Paris
I’ll be honest: I’ve never been tempted to leave New York City. I mean it’s a pretty exciting place to live and to eat. As I’ve said many times before, you can literally eat anywhere in the world right here in New York. And of all the places I’ve traveled to over the course of my life, I’ve never been tempted to stray from Manhattan, that is until I lived in Paris for two glorious months.
Wandering the gorgeous and curiously clean streets, and perfectly manicured gardens and parks of Paris makes you wonder why the hell we don’t all get on a plane and move to the city of love. And not just for love or for beauty, but mostly and most importantly (to me anyway), for food! Paris is a foodie’s paradise.
It’s a paradise for freshly baked, wondrously flaky croissants, for warm, crispy-edged crepes filled with deliciously unpasteurized cheese and farm eggs with fluorescent orange yolks (the way they should be!), for dense, rich foie gras slathered on toasted baguettes, and for nutty, yellow butter smeared on anything and everything. Lest I forget the souffles, the moist, fluffy quiches, the deeply flavored cassoulet, the sublimely stinky and soft cheeses, pain du chocolat, and the peerless chocolates.
I wish it weren’t so heavenly (because practically speaking, I won’t be moving permanently anytime soon), but it is. (C’est la vie.) Paris is like living in a museum, except the food’s so alive. What I learned while playing house in the Marais is that some of the best things I put in my mouth, the best bites I took, were not just from haute, fancy spots, but also from neighborhood bakeries (boulangeries, as they call them), cheese shops (fromageries) and chocolatiers. Of course, Alain Passard’s legendary Arpege was unforgettable (and yes, worth the ticket and fight for a table), and so was Spring and Yamtcha, but I’m more surprised at how exciting the outdoor food markets, the no-frills creperies, and grungy falafel joints are.
If you’re heading to Paris for three days, a week, or forever (I’m jealous), here’s my guide to the Best Restaurants Paris in the most delicious city in the world. And we’ll be adding new places every week…
L’Arpege
Cuisine: French,VegetarianWhen I think of French food, I think of creamy sauces, rich reductions, and decadent meats. Vegetarian fare? Now, that's not something I'd ever associate with France. But I recently had...
Read MoreLa Regalade Conservatoire
Cuisine: FrenchMost of us don't have the luxury to pick up and spend two, three weeks, or even a month in another country. (I'm still not sure how I pulled off six weeks in Paris, but I won't look a gift horse in...
Read MoreLe Chateaubriand
Cuisine: FrenchWander by Le Chateaubriand and you'd never guess it was one of the top fifty restaurants in the world, at least according to San Pellegrino's annual list. In fact, it ranked number nine in 2009,...
Read MoreLe Relais Louis XIII
Cuisine: FrenchThe thing about dining in Paris nowadays is that there are so many modern French restaurants that it's hard to find a traditional, fine French one. You know, the kind that features Quenelles, Frog...
Read MoreBreizh Cafe
Cuisine: FrenchYou can't go to Paris and not eat crepes. Quelle sacrilege! After all, crepes are one of France's most beloved street foods, and one of the world's greatest hangover remedies. (Well, it's...
Read MoreL’As Du Fallafel
Cuisine: Middle EasternYou don't exactly think of fallafel when you think of Paris, but the city of love just happens to house one of the best fallafel shops in the world. (Even better than the fallafel in Israel!)...
Read MoreLe Comptoir Du Relais
Cuisine: FrenchSome restaurants have that certain magic you can't quite put into words. You know, one of those spots that everyone wants to not only see and be seen, but also wants to eat at. That's not an...
Read MoreLe Dome Cafe
Cuisine: French,SeafoodIf you're looking for an old school brasserie to sup on oysters and Chablis, Le Dome in Montparnasse is a fine idea. (Ernest Hemingway and Henry Miller made a regular habit of Le Dome.) With...
Read MoreFlorence Kahn
Cuisine: French,JewishYou wouldn't expect to find a boulangerie in the heart of the Marais named after the first Jewish woman to serve in the United States Congress. But there's nothing American about this shop, easily...
Read MoreDavid Toutain
Cuisine: ModernFull disclosure: I'm not a big fan of the whole molecular gastronomy trend not just in France, but at-large (though I'm more than happy to be proven wrong and I most definitely (and thankfully) am...
Read MoreMarche President Wilson
Cuisine: FrenchMarché President Wilson is proof that outdoor markets don't have to be so 'rough and tumble' so to speak. In fact, this one on the rather luxe Avenue President Wilson, just across from the Seine...
Read MoreMarche Bastille
Cuisine: FrenchThere is no shortage of outdoor food markets in Paris, that's for sure, but some are way better than others, and Marché Bastille happens to be my favorite. Why? Because there's so much variety....
Read MoreLe Coq Rico
Cuisine: FrenchPlanning a visit to the famed Sacré-Couer in Montmartre? There aren't a lot of great dining options in this neck of the woods, aside from Le Coq Rico. If you want to cross Roast Chicken, the...
Read MoreMarche Des Enfants Rouges
What was once an orphanage for children in the 16th century -- orphans who were dressed in red, thus the Enfants Rouges part of the name -- morphed (all the way back in 1615) into one of the funkiest...
Read MoreTerroir Parisien
Cuisine: FrenchI’ve eaten more than my fair share of tarte tatin in France and beyond, and I simply can’t find one that comes close to Yannick Alleno’s take at Terroir Parisien at the Palais Brongniart, near...
Read MoreLe Grand Vefour
Sometimes a restaurant can play a part. Some make you feel cool and in the know, while others make you feel sexy and in the mood. Le Grand Vefour makes you feel like a fancy Frenchmen (or women),...
Read MoreBrasserie Thoumieux
Cuisine: FrenchThe room itself is almost worth a visit to this stylish haunt adjacent to the Hotel Le Thomieux in the 7th arrondissement. Really, all French brasseries should look this fabulous at 90 something...
Read MoreCafe Des Musees
Cuisine: FrenchOne glance at Cafe De Musees and you'll wonder why it always seems so packed. As far as looks go, it's on the uglier side of the spectrum. (Just saying.) It's located in the Marais, just a...
Read MoreLa Boulangerie Beaumarchais
Cuisine: BakeryThe reason you don't read more about this boulangerie is because no one really knows the actual name of this underrated bakery. Some people call it Boulangerie 28 (which refers to its street...
Read MoreLe 6 Paul Bert
Cuisine: FrenchEver since Bertrand Auboyneau opened Bistrot Paul Bert, Rue Paul Bert has become somewhat of a dining destination. His latest venture Le 6 Paul Bert, named after its address, is located just...
Read MoreMarche Biologique Raspail
Cuisine: Food MarketMaybe this market was overhyped to me because I didn't think much of it, at least in comparison to the other outdoor markets the city has to offer. Then again, I'm more concerned with excellent...
Read MoreChez Janou
Cuisine: FrenchThe Mousse au Chocolat is reason enough to make a pit stop at this buzzy neighborhood spot in the Marais. Do not pass go without the mousse. Because what arrives at the table is an enormous bowl...
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