Q & A with Alain Allegretti

Alain Allegretti may not look like it, but he’s a farmer at heart.  And Eater’s Hottest Chef of 2009.   The Ducasse-trained chef spent much of his childhood gathering produce and tending to animals on his family farm in Nice.  But it was at mealtime that he learned how to cook.  Allegretti learned the foundations from his grandmother, Alain Ducasse, Alain Chapel and Le Chantecler under Jacques Maximin.

Why a chef would leave France for New York?  Perhaps to be the co-executive chef at Le Cirque 2000, only to follow it up as head of kitchen at multi-starred Atelier.  He also owns a farm upstate, where he grows some of the produce you’ll find on the menu at Allegretti, his solo debut in the Flatiron District.

Despite a less than ideal economy, Alain has managed to thrive and draw critical attention, as well as a large group of regulars.  He thinks there’s no place like home when it comes to Provencal cooking, except for Allegretti, of course.  On the menu and not to be missed is the Nicois ravioli, stuffed with braised oxtail and swiss chard, and topped with orange beef jus and parmesan, and the porchetta served with lentil salad, onion marmalada and date puree.

Single/Married/Divorced?
Single

What did you want to be when you grew up?
As long as I can remember, I have worked with food and always knew I’d continue to do so.  I love being around a table and sharing a meal. Growing up on a farm, food was always at the center of our day – cultivating it, preparing it, and eating it.

What was your first job in food and what did you learn?
My first job was in the kitchen of Jacques Maximin. I literally started as a commis, cleaning and doing prep and  a chef de partis.    From Chef Maximin learned the fundamentals – about the composition and construction of a dish.

You opened right before the economy began to rather rapidly decline.  How is Allegretti holding up?
I think that all restaurants are experiencing a decline in business, and we are no exception. In the meantime, we’re offering something unique that we hope people will be drawn to when they do go out. We also have a very supportive base of regular customers and we try to show our appreciation to those return guests.

What is the most difficult thing about opening your own place?
Sleeping!

What was  your experience working in Le Cirque’s historied kitchen?
Le Cirque is not like any other restaurant – it is an institution and as much as the food, people come for the scene and to be with Sirio. I liked seeing that side of the business.

You worked  for some of the finest chefs in the world in France — Jacques Maximin  and Alain Ducasse – why leave that for New York?
My time in those kitchens was priceless and made me the chef I am today. But eventually I was ready for the challenge of a whole new culture and market of diners. I could see that New York was quickly becoming the center of the culinary world and 10 years later, it’s become just that – you have Ducasse here, Robuchon and the rest. I wanted to be a part of it, to learn from and contribute to that exciting environment.

You recently received a battery of reviews.  What’s your take on the criticism – good and bad?  Do you ever change a dish or pull it from the menu after reading a negative review?…

Of course you are always happy to receive a good review, or any good feedback. Mostly, we’ve been very well received by the press and I’m very grateful for that. A bad review is like bad feedback from a guest – you hate to hear that someone is not enjoying themselves in your restaurant so you take it seriously and reflect on what you’re doing. If you’re getting the same thing over and over, you make changes. But no, we don’t change a dish if one person doesn’t like it.

But more importantly, you were just voted New York’s Sexiest Chef.   Be honest, you were a little excited about it, yes?
When I heard about the contest, I thought it was a little silly. I certainly wasn’t looking for that kind of attention, but I take it as a compliment and continue to focus on the restaurant. 

What’s your favorite dish on the menu?
The porchetta is a dish that I grew up eating and making. A lot of work goes into that dish and the entire process reminds me of home.

What’s your least favorite (and yes, you must pick one)?
I’m really proud of the entire menu – I think our winter salad is beautiful but if I had to pick, I’d say even a delicious salad is just a salad.

What culinary trends do you embrace?
I really enjoy seeing market-driven menus and restaurants that grow their own vegetables, like Blue Hill at Stone Barns. I enjoy growing fruits and vegetables at my farm upstate and preparing them here at Allegretti.

What culinary trends do you wish would just die already?
None, because I think these trends are what make cooking and dining so interesting even if I don’t enjoy them myself. I understand why tasting menus are offered but I myself would rather order two full-size dishes and focus on each one rather than trying to remember all ten courses at the end of a meal.

Other than your own restaurant, where in New York do you go when you’re nostalgic for home?
Nowhere in New York reminds me of Provence, but when I want the comfort of home I spend time at a simple, neighborhood spot.

Any new projects or aspirations on the horizon? Spill the beans…
When the economy brightens up, I’d love to see Allegretti open a location on the Upper East Side.

Allegretti

Address: 46 W 22nd St. (btwn. 5th & 6th Aves.)
Phone: (212) 206-0555