Q & A with Joel Dennis

You would assume Alain Ducasse would put a Frenchman in charge of Adour, his haute French restaurant in the St. Regis Hotel.   Joel Dennis isn’t from France.  “I’m just a kid from upstate New York,” says Dennis, who grew up in his mother’s kitchen.  He started at the very bottom, working as a dishwasher at a Vermont ski resort, where he learned  humility and dedication were instrumental in the kitchen. 

Dennis went from the CIA straight into Alain Ducasse’s kitchens in both Paris and New York.  But when he was offered the chef de cuisine position at Tru, he leaped at the chance and moved to Chicago.  He played an instrumental role in earning the restaurant four stars from the Chicago Tribune.   

In November, Ducasse offered him the chance to replace Tony Esnault at Adour.  I asked why he thought an American could handle a Ducasse kitchen.  His explanation: “Every great American kitchen is run with a French mentality,”    Despite the economic climate, Dennis says Adour is still going strong. 

He’s put his own spin on the menu with dishes like roasted halibut with razor clams, calamari and green vegetable condiment or duck breast with polents, shallots and radish.  What and where does Dennis eat on his nights off? Italian cooking at Sondra on the Upper East Side. 

Single/married/divorced?
Married.  One child and one on the way.

What did you want to be when you grew up?
I always thought I would be a writer.  I knew from an early age that I needed a creative outlet.  So in some ways I have not drifted too far from that early dream.

What was your first job in food?  What did you learn?
My first job in the restaurant industry was washing dishes at a busy restaurant at a Vermont ski resort.  I gained a tremendous amount of respect for the work and dedication that goes along with this profession and realized there are no unimportant roles.

You’ve worked in some of Chicago’s top restaurants, from Tru to Blue Water Grill.  Do you prefer the restaurant scene there to New York? Or are you content here?
Nothing compares to New York.  New York is my home so I have an emotional connection here.  Chicago is turning into a wonderful restaurant town with many talented chefs practicing their craft, but for me it doesn’t quite have the same diversity that New York has yet.  They are certainly on their way though! 

How do you compare the dining scene in both cities?  What are the different trends, foods, or cuisines people are Chicago chefs more intrigued by right now? 
Chicago has embraced the molecular gastronomic movement (although I don’t like the term) which is, interestingly, contrary to the perception of the Midwest.  Chicago is not the meat and potatoes town that some might perceive it as!  There is a great farm to table movement happening thanks to the many wonderful farmers who have formed relationships with Chicago chefs over the last few years.

What are some of the most important lessons you’ve learned from Alain Ducasse?
Humility, dedication and passion.  Alain Ducasse instills these qualities in all his chefs to constantly inspire them.  He also has the keenest eye for every detail.  He has the unique ability to think like a chef and a customer at the same time, often noticing things that others would not. 

When approached to replace Tony Esnault, were you ever hesitant about following him as executve chef of Adour?
I don’t think hesitant is the right word.  Tony is a talented chef and I had the opportunity to work with him for six months before taking over as executive chef.  I was excited about the challenge and the opportunity to add my touch to Adour.  

You had started out as the executive sous chef at Adour – what new perspectives have you gained from moving up to executive chef? How have you made the menu your own?
The menu is a continuum, constantly evolving with each new season.  I work closely with Alain Ducasse on each new menu.  He has an incredible palate and eye for detail often catching things that go overlooked.  It is a nice balance and we have a wonderful working relationship.  I’m also sourcing a lot of ingredients from smaller, local farms and purveyors, like lamb from Elysian Fields Farm in Pennsylvania. 

Considering the economy, how has Adour been holding up all in all?  Are people still willing to order expensive bottles of wine and extravagant dishes?
The economy has affected everyone on a certain level and the restaurant industry is no exception.  But despite the economic climate, Adour continues to do well.  We have a wonderful wine cellar with a huge variety of bottles and prices, so there’s definitely something for everyone.

Earlier this year you cooked a “Vintage Dinner” at Adour – what were some of the challenges of updating old fashioned “reciepts” as they used to call them for modern times?
The Zagat Vintage Dinner Series was a fantastic idea from the onset.  It was particularly fitting for Adour as we are located in such a historic hotel property.  We had access to the original menus from the St. Regis at the turn of the century so it was fun trying to reinterpret them for the beginning of the 21^st century.  The feedback we received from the dinner was fantastic.

Alain Ducasse stated he was excited to have an American running the Adour kitchen.  How has your upbringing in Rochester, NY differentiated you from other chefs cooking French food?
At heart, I am just a kid from upstate New York.  I guess that is what differentiates me from other chefs cooking French food.  So, it is a real honor to have been asked by Alain Ducasse to run the Adour kitchen because at the end of the day, if you share a sensibility about food it doesn’t matter what country you come from.  I have a tremendous amount of respect for hi

m. 

Do you think you’ve injected your own American influences into the menu?   What dishes have you put on lately or taken off since Tony left?

The lines between French and American cooking have been blurred because every great American kitchen is run with a French mentality.  Modern cooking is rooted in French tradition, so I have a difficult time discerning the two.  I think the use of indigenous products is what adds an American influence to the menu at Adour.  For instance, we are using a refined BBQ sauce on a pork dish this summer.  What’s more American than that?   

What culinary trends do you embrace?
I have never really embraced culinary trends because they are just that.  The cuisine I really enjoy cooking is timeless. 

What culinary trends do you wish would just die already?
I get frustrated with the sustainable and organic angle simply because I feel we all have a responsibility to contribute to a healthier planet by decreasing our carbon footprint and our reliance on agribusiness.  It should not be used as a marketing tool, but rather something we all do to ensure quality. 

What is your favorite dish on the menu at Adour?
I really like the loup de mer.  The Riviera sauce embodies the essence of the Mediterranean.

And a least favorite (yes, you must pick one)?
I would have to say the barramundi.

Where (other than your own restaurant,) do you like to eat in New York City?
With a 16 month old boy running around the house, it’s a treat to have the occasional restaurant meal now more than ever.  I have had great meals at Sandro on the Upper East Side.  Italian cuisine, particularly southern, is just so comforting and Sandro does it best.

Any new projects on the horizon?  Any plans on opening your own restaurant in the near future.  Spill the beans…
None at the moment.

Address: 2 E 55th St., between 5th and Madison Aves.
Phone: (212) 710-2277