French Cuisines
Secession
Dinner as improvisation at Bouley’s Secession 30 Hudson St., near Duane St., (212) 791-3771 Mon.-Thur., 5 p.m.-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 5 p.m.-10:30 p.m. Cuisine: Franco-Italian Vibe: Gilded Tribeca affair Occasion: Downtown date, family dinner. Don’t-Miss Dish: Boudin blanc, Princess crab & avocado salad, chocolate banana with prune Armagnac ice cream. Average Price: Appetizers, $12; entrees, $23; dessert, $9. Reservations: Recommended Let’s start with the numbers. On the menu at Secession, there are eight charcuteries, a dozen salads, seven types of oysters and clams, four soups, three risottos and three kinds of fries. And that is only half the items. I haven’t mentioned the classics or the sides or, for that matter, what’s been roasted, fried, grilled or cooked a la plancha. You might be tempted to hand the menu back to your server and say simply, “Bring me food.” Order...
Read MoreAllegretti
46 W. 22nd St., between Fifth and Sixth Aves. (212) 206-0555 5 p.m.-11 p.m. CUISINE Southern French VIBE Think yacht chic OCCASION First date, group dinner, business lunch DON’T-MISS DISH Heirloom tomato salad, seared dorade, chocolate fondant PRICE Appetizers, $15; entrees, $26; dessert, $10 RESERVATIONS: Recommended Capsule: You’ll want to become a regular at Allegretti. Allegretti is growing on me. And that very fact demonstrates one of the few drawbacks of being a restaurant critic. I don’t get to be a regular anywhere. What could be better than a restaurant where you don’t even have to order, where the server already knows how you like your steak and martini? (Ice-cold vodka in a martini glass, please. Olives on the side.) There’s a lot of pleasure in trying a new dish every night, but there’s something to be said...
Read MoreBenoit
The not-so-fine art of fine French dining. 60 W. 55th St., between Fifth & Sixth Aves., (646) 943-7373. Seven days a week. Breakfast, Mon.-Fri., 7:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; lunch, Mon.-Sat., 11:45 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner, Mon.-Sun., 5:30-11 p.m. CUISINE French bistro. VIBE Elegant midtown bistro. OCCASION Group dining, business lunch. DON’T-MISS DISH Cassoulet, onion soup gratinee, escargots. PRICE Appetizers, $9-$19; entrees, $19-$48; dessert, $7-18. RESERVATIONS Recommended. No one expects humble from Alain Ducasse. But that’s what you get at Benoit. There’s even a dollar menu. It has one dish: Egg Mayo, a terrific deviled egg with a fluffy, sweet filling. It makes for a glorious, four-bite lunch. Ducasse now runs three Benoits – the original Paris bistro (which opened in 1912), another in Tokyo and the newest, at 60 W. 55th St., the address of the old Le Cote Basque. A...
Read MorePomme de Terre
“It’s shocking,” a diner at Pomme de Terre said one night. “I’ve lived down the street for 20 years. A few months ago this was a seedy bodega that dealt drugs.” Now that seedy bodega in Ditmas Park, Brooklyn, is a charming corner bistro near a laundromat, a CVS pharmacy and a few takeout spots — a culinary nowhere along Newkirk Ave. This snug 40-seat space is appointed with vibrant murals that resemble vintage French posters. The original tin-ceiling remains, newly restored and painted over in a sunny yellow. Through large curtained windows, I saw patrons of every age waiting along the sidewalk. From the expressions on diners’ faces, the neighborhood seems thrilled with the dizzying transformation. So are co-owners Gary Jonas and Allison McDowell, who are residents of Ditmas Park themselves. They opened their first restaurant — The...
Read MoreAdour
ADDRESS:2 E. 55th St., at Fifth Ave. (212) 710-2277 DINNER: Mon.-Sat., 5.30 p.m.-11 p.m.; Sun., 5.30 p.m.-10 p.m. CUISINE: Contemporary French VIBE: Elegant affair OCCASION: Fine dining, special occasion DON’T-MISS DISH: Ricotta gnocchi; diver scallops with black truffles; beef tenderloin. PRICE: Appetizers, $17-29; entrees, $32-49; desserts, $14. RESERVATIONS: Required. In recent years, New York has been the thorn in Alain Ducasse‘s side. An exalted French chef, Ducasse has amassed an empire of Michelin-starred institutions, including Le Louis XV in Monte Carlo and his eponymous restaurant at Plaza Athénée in Paris. While Ducasse has conquered much of the globe, his first two Manhattan ventures resulted in defeat and subsequently closed (Alain Ducasse at the Essex House, Mix). Yet he seems more determined than ever to win our affections at Adour, his newest restaurant set in the landmark St. Regis Hotel....
Read MoreBar Boulud
Address: 1900 Broadway, near 64th St. Phone: (212) 595-0303 Dinner: Sun.-Thurs., 5-11 p.m; Fri. & Sat., 5 p.m.- midnight; Lunch: Mon.-Fri., noon-3:30 p.m. Cuisine: Contemporary French. Vibe: Bustling wine bar. Occasion: Charcuterie quest; casual UWS dinner. Don’t Miss Dish: Pate grand-mere; braised flatiron steak. Price: Appetizers, $8-$18; entrees, $17-$28; desserts, $6-$12. Reservations: Highly recommended. Chef Daniel Boulud’s new French bistro, which opened across from Lincoln Center, is unlike any other Boulud production. This is the iconic chef’s answer to Manhattan’s demand for informal wine bars. His talent for producing outstanding French cuisine is matched by equally impeccable service (Daniel, Café Boulud). At Daniel (his haute flagship), servers glide gracefully through the dining room. At Bar Boulud, they frantically weave through the narrow quarters, crowded with oenophiles, locals and Boulud devotees. Guests swarm the hostess stand; the less desirable front...
Read MoreFR.OG
Address: 71 Spring St., btwn. Crosby & Lafayette Sts. Phone: 212.966.5050 Cuisine: French-bent global Vibe: Modern swank Scene: Euro crowd Hours: Dinner, Mon – Thu, 5:30pm – 10:30pm; Fri & Sat, 5:30pm – 11pm; Lunch, Friday, 12pm-2:30pm. First Bite Impressions: Lost in translation Price: Appetizers, $14; Entrees, $30. Reservations: Reservations recommended. www.frognyc.com Chef Didier Virot & his partner Philip Kirsh are testing their luck at NYC’s restaurant roulette again. While Virot’s first venture notably brought refined French to the Upper West Side, he’s decided this time to tempt fate in Soho with a mixed bag of nearly every cuisine under the “French sun” (Lebanon, Morocco, Vietnam, & Africa to name a few). The two-level space also happens to be in throwing distance from Balthazar, which makes it nearly impossible to avoid side-by-side comparisons to McNally’s French tour de force. ...
Read MoreProvence
Address: 137 MacDougal St., btwn. Prince & Spring Sts. Phone: 212.475.7500 Cuisine: Provencal French Vibe: Country charm Scene: An unassuming romantic Hours: Dinner, Mon – Sat, 5:30pm – 11:30pm. Inside Scoop: May 1st, Sunday night dinner begins. Come mid-May, lunch 7 days a week. Don’t Miss Dish: Salt cod fritters First Bite Impressions: Neighborhood gem Price: Appetizers, $10; Entrees, $23. Reservations: Reservations recommended. www.provencenyc.com In this freakishly fast-paced dining climate, restaurateurs often resort to convoluted fusion tactics & garish gimmicks to garner attention. It’s easy for diners to get caught up in the rat race, too busy sampling the latest in foie gras powder or Italian-Japanese fusion to revisit our neighborhood favorites. We take steadfast spots like Provence for granted. And then one day, owner Jean Michael & his restaurant shutter after nearly twenty years. But Marc Meyer and...
Read MoreAzza
Address: 137 East 55th St., btwn. 3rd & Lexington Aves. Phone: 212.755.7055 Cuisine: French-Moroccan Vibe: Exotic Arabian escape Scene: Euro crowd Hours: Dinner, Mon – Sat, 5:30pm- 12am. Lounge hours, Mon – Fri, 5:30pm – 4AM, Sat. 10pm – 4am. Scoop: Multitask – shop while you imbibe in the downstairs store filled with Moroccan wares Price: Appetizers, $5-11. Entrees, $22-34. Reservations: Reservations accepted. www.azzanyc.com Ever wonder what happened to Fizz, that members-only supper club & lounge in midtown, which suddenly lifted its exclusionary policy to fill the swanky void within? Neither did I, but apparently it “fizzled” into the night, not shocking considering the allure of downtown Lotus, Marquee and Stereo. In its wake, Restaurateur Djamal Zoughbi and his partner Thierry Pomies have ambitiously revamped the space, unveiling French-Moroccan Azza. Gone are the moneyed namedroppers and impossible Fizz guest...
Read MoreLe Cirque
151 E. 58th St., btwn. Lexington & 3rd Aves. (212)644-0202 Website TYPE: Modern French VIBE: Austere elegance OCCASION: A momentous date or family affair DON’T MISS DISH: Spaghetti primavera (off the menu) DON’T BOTHER DISH: Scallops with walnut crumble & cauliflower a la Grenobloise DRINK SPECIALTY: A lengthy and expensive wine list PRICE: $90 & up HOURS: Dinner, Mon-Sat, 5:30pm-11pm, Sun, 5pm-10:30pm; Lunch, Mon-Fri, 11:45pm-2:30pm. RESERVATIONS: Reservations highly recommended. DRESS CODE: Jacket required in the main dining room (not the cafe). RESTAURANT GIRL RATES: 6 FINAL WORD: Stuck in a culinary catch-22 of sorts, Le Cirque seems trapped between a new and old restaurant world order. As chef Christophe Bellanca throws his hat into the ring, he plays it a little too safe with overly polished, but somewhat uninspired French fare. Go for the Maccioni family theatrics and coax...
Read MoreDennis Foy
313 Church St., btwn. Walker & Lispenard Sts. (212)625-1007 www.dennisfoynyc.com LX TV with Restaurant Girl TYPE: French-influenced Contemporary American VIBE: Cozy elegance OCCASION: A romantic date or civilized family celebration DON’T MISS DISH: Sauteed gnocchi with sage & chives DON’T BOTHER DISH: Wild striped bass with tomato confit DRINK SPECIALTY: 100-bottle global wine list PRICE: $55 & up INSIDE SCOOP: A downstairs private room for parties. HOURS: Dinner, 7 days a week, Mon – Sun, 5:30 PM – 11:30 PM; lunch & weekend brunch, starting late January (tbd). RESERVATIONS: Reservations recommended, especially on weekends. RESTAURANT GIRL RATES: 7 FINAL WORD: As the trend toward Contemporary American cuisine trickles outside its West Village epicenter, veteran chef, Dennis Foy, sets his sights on Tribeca with a splendidly well-executed, French-influenced menu of his own. After spending over thirty years in haute kitchens...
Read MoreBar Martignetti
406 Broome Street, at Cleveland Place (212)680-5600 TYPE: American brasserie with a French bent VIBE: A definitively social spot OCCASION: A casual date, bar dining, or group gathering DON’T MISS DISH: Skate with cauliflower puree, maitake mushrooms & brussel sprouts DON’T BOTHER DISH: Tuna tartare DRINK SPECIALTY: Bar Gibson (the house favorite) PRICE: $45 & up HOURS: Dinner, 7 days a week, 6 PM – 2 AM; Lunch, Sat. & Sun., 10 AM – 5 PM; Lunch, Mon. – Fri., 11 AM – 6 PM. RESERVATIONS: Reservations accepted & recommended for dinner. RESTAURANT GIRL RATES: 7 on food, 9 on scene FINAL WORD: Not your ordinary restaurant du jour, Bar Martignetti is intent on reinventing the lost art of table-hopping. With some kick-ass cocktails and a satisfying menu, this spot will undoubtedly breed a following of aspiring regulars. After...
Read MoreThe London Bar
151 West 54th Street, nr. 7th Ave. (212)468-8889 website TYPE: Asian-inflected French VIBE: Modern elegance OCCASION: A mature date or civilized family affair DON’T MISS DISH: White onion veloute with duck ragout DON’T BOTHER DISH: Peekytoe crab with avocado & sweetcorn sorbet DRINK SPECIALTY: An extensive wine list & classic cocktails. PRICE: $70 & up HOURS: Breakfast, lunch & dinner, 365 days a year, 6AM – 11PM in the London Bar. High tea served every afternoon at 4 PM. Dinner only in Gordon Ramsay at the London, beginning at 5:30 PM. RESERVATIONS: Reservations are recommended, especially for dinner. Be prepared to dial two months before you actually care to dine. RESTAURANT GIRL RATES (1-10): 6 (pretty good) FINAL WORD: A royal mess – The London Bar was wildly inconsistent on opening night. Still, it’s well worth a visit...
Read MoreCafe Cluny
284 West 12th St. (at 4th St.) (212)255-6900 TYPE: French-American restaurant VIBE: Charming neighborhood haunt OCCASION: A casual date or group dining DON’T MISS DISH: Duck confit with baby brussel sprouts DON’T BOTHER DISH: Roasted cod DRINK SPECIALTY: 21-bottle wine list; 16 by the glass PRICE: $45 & up HOURS: Open seven days a week, 5:30 PM-12 PM; Brunch, Saturday & Sunday 10:30 AM-3 PM; Breafast, Monday-Friday, 8 AM-11:30 AM (starting November 13th) RESERVATIONS: Reservations are recommended, especially on weekends. RESTAURANT GIRL RATES (1-10): 6.5 (good) FINAL WORD: Quaint makes a comeback this fall as charming bistros of the Cafe Cluny sorts, emerge in the West Village. Cozy is the new black this fall as far as restaurants are concerned. While last spring was marked by an invasion of Asian mega-restaurants the size of airplane hangars, New Yorkers fled...
Read MoreFrederick’s Downtown
637 Hudson St. (at Horatio St.) (212)488-4200 website LX.TV TYPE: Modern french bistro VIBE: Fashionably civilized dining OCCASION: A cozy date or group dinner DON’T MISS DISH: Creamy orzo with lobster & chanterelle mushrooms DON’T BOTHER DISH: Roasted codfish DRINK SPECIALTY: 28-bottle wine list; 16 by the glass; 1/2 and whole carafes also available. PRICE: $60 & up HOURS: Open seven days a week, 5:30 PM – 2 AM. RESERVATIONS: Reservations recommended, especially on weekends. BONUS: Outdoor seating’s perfect for weekend brunch. RESTAURANT GIRL RATES (1-10): 8 (excellent) FINAL WORD: Retreat from the frenetic Meatpacking streets into this warm French bistro and dine in style on splendid Provencal fare. Owners Frederick and Laurent Lesort have decided to venture outside their midtown comfort zone (Frederick’s on Madison & Frederick’s on 58th St.), this time with a French bistro, safely situated...
Read MoreL’Atelier de Joel Robuchon
57 East 57th Street (between Park & Madison Aves.) (212)350-6658 Menu Savory NY Video TYPE: Modern French cuisine VIBE: Contagiously spirited fine dining with a casual flair OCCASION: An indulgent splurge, romantic dinner, or gastronomic adventure DON’T MISS DISH: Poached baby kusyu oysters in echire butter DON’T BOTHER DISH: Truffled mashed potatoes PRICE: $100 (with a cocktail) & up; $160 for the discovery tasting menu HOURS: Dinner, Monday through Sunday, 6 PM – 12AM; Lunch, Monday through Sunday, 11:30 AM – 2:30 PM. RESTAURANT GIRL RATES: 9 (divine) SEATING: 20 seats at the eating bar, 30 seats in the dining room RESERVATIONS: Reservations for tables highly recommended; 6 PM reservations taken for the eating bar, after that, on a first-come first-served basis. INSIDE SCOOP: Order the off-the-menu pasta carbonara, a Paris L’Atelier signature. FINAL WORD: An uniquely unfussy haute...
Read MoreChat Noir
In the spirit of not just eating, but also of dining out in support of restaurant newcomers, who have chosen to brave the joyfully overpopulated restaurant world in hopes of making an impression on the city’s fickle palate, I snuck a peek at two of fall’s newest food arrivals: Chat Noir & Goblin Market. Both of these two newbies, smaller than the recent crop of mega-restaurants and thankfully devoid of over the top decor and staff with headsets, make you want to root for the little guy, or in the case of Chat Noir, the little woman. Here’s a look at Chat Noir (Goblin Market to follow next week): CHAT NOIR 22 East 66 Street (btwn. Madison & 5th Aves.) (212)794-2428 Savory NY video TYPE: Classic French (seafood-heavy menu) VIBE: A petite Balthazar with a feminine touch OCCASION: Boutique...
Read MoreCafe D’Alsace
1695 Second Avenue (at 88th Street) (212)722-5133 cafedalsace.com TYPE: French with a German twist VIBE: Breezy neighborhood bistro OCCASION: Summer is here & outdoor seating’s aplenty GO WITH: Friends or family – it’s a casual affair DON’T MISS DISH: Baeckeoffe (a meaty Alsatian stew) DON’T BOTHER DISH: Asian or Americanized fare PRICE: $30 & up HOURS: Dinner, Monday-Thursday, 5:30-11 PM, Friday & Sat. 5:30-12, Sunday 5:30-10:30. Lunch/brunch Monday-Friday, 11:30-3:30 PM, Saturday & Sunday, 10:30-3:30 PM INSIDE SCOOP: Take Beer 101 – tableside with Aviram (the beer sommelier) RESTAURANT GIRL RATES (1-10): 6 FINAL WORD: Eat outside your comfort zone. QUICK CHEAT SHEET: Drink – If you don’t have too big an ego, let Aviram order for you. If you do, experiment with the beer menu. Of course, you can never go wrong with a bottle of Red Wine Start...
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