Gourmet Gossip: December 2015

In this great dining city of ours, barely a day passes without news of an exciting new restaurant opening, a devastating closing, a shocking chef shuffle, or a groundbreaking, must-try dish.  That’s why we’re keeping you apprised of the industry’s most noteworthy bits and bites — from Chevalier‘s (comparatively) casual makeover to the debut of two notable, Japanese eateries, and a slew of switch-ups over at the Seagram Building.

Dialing Down the Ritz: Located in the luxe Baccarat Hotel, and formerly fronted by La Grenouille’s famed manager, Charles Masson, Chevalier is as “la di la” as it gets; bedecked with sparkling chandeliers, starched linens, crystal glassware and lavish prix fixes.  But now that opening chef Shea Gallante is solely in charge of the operation, he’s aiming to make the restaurant a bit more accessible by dialing down the décor and adding a la carte options and a brand new bar menu.  That being said, don’t expect sliders and chicken wings — Chevalier’s idea of pub grub runs to Beef Tartare with hen egg yolks, and Dungeness Crab Risotto, crowned with black truffle and chives.

Oh, Ya: Get excited for this spin-off — the acclaimed, eight-year-old, Michelin-starred Kyo Ya has spawned a more gently-priced spot called Autre Kyo Ya in the East Village.  Combining French and Japanese influences (from co-chefs Shuji Furukawa, a Kyo Ya alum, and Takashi Igarashi of Kajitsu), the eatery will serve a la carte dishes instead of
kaiseki tasting menus; including Quinoa Bouillabaisse Risotto with yakishimo fish, Roasted Beet Soup with shiro miso, and Fried Tofu with dried tomato dashi and mustard spice.

Ramen Rollout: Goodness knows, New York’s ramen scene is (almost) starting to rival Japan’s — especially considering some of their premier noodle masters continue to flock to our shores.  And the latest is Takatoshi Nagara (also of Tokyo’s Michelin-honored Bigaya), who recently opened Mr. Taka on the Lower East Side.  In addition to a handful of rice bowls and bar bites — think Sweet Potato Tempura, Chicken Wings, and Broiled Pork Belly with scallions — the pride of house is nine different iterations of savory, slurpable ramen; including four kinds of Shoyu, a classic Tonkotsu, and Spicy Miso, topped with a soft boiled egg, bean sprouts, pork belly and ground pork.

Aparicio In At Avant: Losing their opening chef so early in the game could have been a real blow to Avant Garden, Davi DeRossi’s vegan sleeper hit in the East Village.  But they couldn’t have asked for a better replacement than Alex Aparicio, John Fraser’s longtime, right-hand man at Dovetail and Narcissa — both heralded for their fantastic, vegetable-focused cuisine.  For now, Aparicio plans to gently transition into his brand new role as executive chef with a few nightly specials, complementing menu mainstays such as Kale Panzanella, Maitake Mushrooms with smoked macadamia, and Potato Cannelloni.

Seagram Switch-ups: The sumptuous home of the iconic Four Seasons (which won’t be returning once its lease expires next year), The Seagram Building is about to lose another, veteran tenant.  After 56-years of serving Beef Wellington and French Onion Soup to the well-heeled denizens of Midtown East, the snazzy, though admittedly outdated Brasserie will launch its final dinner service on Christmas Eve.  But stay tuned for more Seagram-based news in 2016, once owner Aby Rosen (and his new partners, the Major Food Group) get to work revamping their vacated, super-sized spots.

Blu Period: While recent attempts have been made to modernize the steakhouse (i.e., the relaxed and affordable Quality Meats), the just opened Blu on Park is staying true to the seriously swank traditions of classic porterhouse palaces. Spread over three separate floors in a 1920’s-era, Upper East Side brownstone, the space boasts glittering antique mirrors and gleaming, gold-washed walls, along with an opulent menu of Shellfish Plateaus, Caviar, Lobster Cocktail, Whole Roasted Fish, and a Prime Dry-Aged Tomahawk for two.