Gourmet Gossip: March 2016

In this great dining city of ours, barely a day passes without news of an exciting, new restaurant opening, a devastating closing, a shocking chef shuffle, or a groundbreaking, must-try dish. That’s why we’re keeping you apprised of the industry’s most noteworthy bits and bites — from Dale Talde’s flourishing empire (who knew?) to Dominique Ansel’s new tasting room theme, M. Wells Steakhouse’s big overhaul & much more!

Talde Takeover: It seems that Talde’s expansion plans reach far beyond Jersey City.  In fact, the Three Kings Hospitality group (behind the original Brooklyn power trio of Talde, Thistle Hill Tavern and Pork Slope) were approved for not just one, but four separate concepts, inside of the Bowery’s upcoming Joie de Vivre Hotel.  They’ll each be in someway inspired by the surrounding neighborhood of Chinatown — from the 200-seat Asian restaurant, Rice & Gold to a basement bar called The Green Lady, and another space dubbed the Breezeway, which will house a semi-permanent exhibit from the Museum of Chinese in America.  There will also be a rooftop lounge, featuring a hot dog cart; what, no pork and pretzel chive potstickers?

American Pie: After a debut menu revolving around “Firsts,” Dominique Ansel has revealed the follow-up theme for his innovative, all-dessert tasting room, U.P., located above his West Village bakery.  The Frenchman will explore a century’s worth of “American Dreams” through his medium of choice, sugar, from the California Gold Rush-inspired “Eureka” (i.e., gold dusted bread pudding, embedded in coffee-hazelnut ‘dirt’), to the “White Picket Fence” (featuring gardens plush with sake-marinated jicama, confit strawberries and pickled persimmons), and the “Going Viral;” a cheese course, of sorts, showcasing a sheep carved from manchego, paired with a marcona almond sable cookie and quince jam.

Well, Well, Well: The M.Wells team recently announced that until further notice, their Long Island City steakhouse will only be open from Thursday through Saturday.  They’re using the time to revamp and rethink every aspect of their characteristically eclectic restaurant, from the décor to the service to the menu (which, previously, boasted literally hundreds of items, including a massive burger with a giant bone protruding from the side).  In addition to paring it down considerably — to include a concise roster of offerings like Wedge Salads, Brisket Sandwiches, Cassoulet, Pork Chop “Stacks” and Double Veggie Foie Gras — they plan to eventually usher in multi-course, large format dinners, 
focusing on whole animals for two to six guests.

Sweet Music: Grub Street is partnering with Edible Schoolyard and the MP Shift (the concept, design and branding studio, behind the Summer Shift at Rockaway beach) for their first annual “Makers & Bakers” brunch event, being held on March 20th.  For $85, patrons will be able to sample one-of-a-kind dishes prepared by a crew of unlikely teams; Sadelle’s Melissa Weller, Bien Cuit’s Zachary Golper, Breads Bakery’s Edan Leshnick and Brooklyn Bread Lab’s Adam Leonti, coupled off with fashion designer Steven Alan, MGMT’s Andrew VanWyngarden, Calliope’s Caroline Ventura, and LCD Soundsystem’s Nancy Whang.

Exit Stage Left: Talk about another sad shutter; the venerable Stage Restaurant — the 35-year-old greasy spoon located next door to the Orpheum Theatre — is officially closing up shop. Business was temporarily halted 11 months ago when Con Ed discovered a faulty gas connection, and a lawsuit was filed between the eatery and their landlord over who was responsible for the issue.  But even after being a resolved, a massive loss of revenue (in addition to the prohibitive cost of repairs and reopening) have proved to much of a burden for Stage Restaurant to bear; so pour out an egg cream for the fallen icon.

Fish Dish: Immaculate sushi temples abound nowadays — from the ultra-luxe Masa to the affordable Dojo and multiple, Michelin-starred spots in between.  But when Sushi Zen debuted in 1983, a majority of New Yorkers equated the century-old, Japanese culinary tradition with premade California rolls.  Sadly, the seminal raw fish spot — who’s longtime chef & proprietor, Toshio Suzuki, trained Masaharu Morimoto — closed its doors early this week, leaving a considerable fine dining hole in otherwise chain restaurant-glutted Times Square.