Restaurants in New York City
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Merkato 55
A splashy and unlikely outpost for African cooking. 55 Gansevoort St., between Greenwich & Washington Sts. (212) 255-8555 Dinner, Mon.-Sun., 5:30 p.m.-midnight CUISINE Pan-African VIBE African chic brasserie OCCASION Trendy group dining; casual date. DON’T-MISS DISH Lamb tartar; octopus with cured beef; jerk pork belly. PRICE Small bites, $4-13; appetizers, $10-17; entrees, $18-30; desserts, $4-10. RESERVATIONS Recommended Opening a Pan-African restaurant in the Meatpacking District doesn’t exactly sound like a sure thing. After all, this is a part of Manhattan where the scene outshines food as a nocturnal crowd ricochets from one nightclub to the next. But chef Marcus Samuelsson has never been afraid to take chances. At Aquavit, he earned praise for a thoroughly innovative approach to Scandinavian fare. With his newest endeavor, Merkato 55, he strives to recast African cooking in an equally modern and prominent light....
Read MoreCommerce
Nostalgic for an old New York. 50 Commerce St., between Bedford and Barrow Sts. (212) 524-2301 Dinner: Mon.-Sat., 5:30 p.m.-11 p.m.; Sun., 5 p.m.-11 p.m. CUISINE: New American VIBE: Charming tavern OCCASION: Neighborhood dining; group dinner DON’T-MISS DISH: Marinated fluke sashimi; red snapper with Thai-inspired herb broth PRICE: Appetizers, $11-19; entrees, $23-44; desserts, $9-16 RESERVATIONS: Recommended Cue the historical relevance of 50 Commerce St.: Nestled on a cobblestone-paved corner in Greenwich Village, this address has seen a Depression-era speakeasy, the 50-year-long run of the Blue Mill Tavern and a quintessential neighborhood haunt, Grange Hall. Did I mention a short-lived restaurant that resurrected the name of the Blue Mill Tavern? If you’ve ever wondered what it was like to dine in the Village in the 1940s, step into Commerce. It’s the newest incarnation of this landmark building. Co-owners Tony Zazula...
Read MoreSapori D’Ischia
A fettuccine worth traveling for. ADDRESS: 55-15 37th Ave., near 56th St., Woodside. PHONE: (718) 446-1500 DINNER: Tues.-Sat., 5:30-11 p.m.; Sun., 3-10:30 p.m. Closed Mondays. CUISINE Regional Italian VIBE Charming market-restaurant OCCASION Destination dining; authentic Italian supper DON’T-MISS DISH Fettuccine al’Antonio; polenta-crusted tilapia PRICE Appetizers, $9.50-$14; entrees, $17-$26; desserts, $7 RESERVATIONS Accepted No ice. No tap water. No cheese on seafood dishes. No lemon peel in espresso. These are just four of the “Ten Commandments” patrons must abide by at Sapori d’Ischia, an Italian specialty market-restaurant in an industrial section of Woodside, Queens. Try requesting butter for the bread; your server may return with a framed set of rules to review before attempting an order. It seems presumptuous for a wholesale store that peddles imported goods by day to enforce such vigilant decrees of dining by night. Especially when...
Read MoreSouth Gate
We have some reservations. ADDRESS:154 Central Park South PHONE: (212) 484-5120 DINNER: Sun.-Thur., 5.30 p.m.-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 5:30 p.m.-10:30 p.m. CUISINE Seasonal American. VIBE Sleek hotel eatery. OCCASION Hotel dining; dessert destination. DON’T-MISS DISH Buttercup flan; flash-seared calamari. PRICE Appetizers, $10-$21; entrees, $24-$39; desserts, $9-$12. RESERVATIONS Recommended. How fitting that South Gate premiered just on the heels of the highly anticipated unveiling of Alain Ducasse‘s Adour. After all, South Gate, and its chef, Kerry Heffernan, were installed to fill the void left when Ducasse vacated the Essex House. While Alain Ducasse’s former restaurant was buried in the rear of the building, South Gate has its own street entrance on Central Park South. With its glitzy glass façade overlooking the park, it’s a radically hip departure from Ducasse’s classically French production. Designed by Tony Chi, the sleek space is embellished...
Read MoreAdour
ADDRESS:2 E. 55th St., at Fifth Ave. (212) 710-2277 DINNER: Mon.-Sat., 5.30 p.m.-11 p.m.; Sun., 5.30 p.m.-10 p.m. CUISINE: Contemporary French VIBE: Elegant affair OCCASION: Fine dining, special occasion DON’T-MISS DISH: Ricotta gnocchi; diver scallops with black truffles; beef tenderloin. PRICE: Appetizers, $17-29; entrees, $32-49; desserts, $14. RESERVATIONS: Required. In recent years, New York has been the thorn in Alain Ducasse‘s side. An exalted French chef, Ducasse has amassed an empire of Michelin-starred institutions, including Le Louis XV in Monte Carlo and his eponymous restaurant at Plaza Athénée in Paris. While Ducasse has conquered much of the globe, his first two Manhattan ventures resulted in defeat and subsequently closed (Alain Ducasse at the Essex House, Mix). Yet he seems more determined than ever to win our affections at Adour, his newest restaurant set in the landmark St. Regis Hotel....
Read MoreRaising the Bar on Organic Food – Free Foods NYC
You have to admire chef Matthew Kenney’s unbridled enthusiasm for opening restaurants. Though Heirloom and Blue/Green Organic Juice Cafe were both unsuccessful, Kenney seems to be making a comeback at Free Foods NYC. With business partner Peter Schatzberg, Kenney has launched this organic answer to fast food – a quickly burgeoning trend in NYC. Though this eatery is located in the heart of midtown, the space feels more like a Vermont country store. Shelves are lined with organic sodas and wicker barrels are stocked with organic chocolates and chips. While the container (pictured right) may look like plastic, it’s made entirely out of 100% sustainable, corn-based material. Thus, I was quite skeptical that the food would transcend any “tastes good for healthy food” expectations. Well, it does. In fact, the spice-rubbed filet mignon is excellent. Juicy slivers of filet get...
Read MoreGreenwich SteakNBurger Opens in Tribeca
Owner Stephen LoCastro has transformed what was formerly Tribeca Studio Deli into Greenwich SteakNBurger. Don’t be deceived by the name as LoCastro (Tre Scalini) to implement an American bistro menu with an impressive selection of gourmet burgers (ten to be exact) and homemade sauces. Highlights include a New Zealand lamb burger with smoked onions, Maryland crab burger, and Sicilian veal burger with sweet potato gnocchi. There’s also a sizeable bistro menu with a signature “NY steak tartar burger” appetizer, grilled skirt steak with coffee barbecue sauce as well as grilled salmon with balsamic reduction. The 70-seat space is outfitted with cherry hardwood floors, iron chandeliers and Morroccan benches. Come spring, Greenwich SteakNBurger will also offer al fresco sidewalk seating. Address: 369 Greenwich St., corner of Franklin St. Hours: Mon-Sat, 11a.m.-11p.m., Sun, 11.a.m.-9p.m. Phone: (212)625-1010 Until we eat again, Restaurant...
Read MoreZenkichi
A hidden gem in Brooklyn ADDRESS: 77 N. Sixth St.,at Wythe Ave., Brooklyn PHONE: (718) 388-8985 DINNER: Tues.-Sat.,6-11:30 p.m.; Sun., 5:30-11 p.m. CUISINE: Japanese brasserie VIBE: Clandestine speakeasy OCCASION: Romantic date; under-the-radar dining DON’T-MISS DISH: Grilled miso oysters; scallops tempura PRICES: Small plates $5-$14; desserts $6-$6.50 RESERVATIONS: Highly recommended If James Bond were craving Japanese in Brooklyn, I imagine it would look a lot like Zenkichi. An air of mystery and glamour begins at an unmarked wood door on a lonely street corner at the edge of Williamsburg. As you descend a flight of stairs into this three-story labyrinth of corridors, you’ll feel like you’ve stumbled upon some hidden “otherworld” decorated with Japanese lanterns, bamboo and pebble-strewn floors. Diners are escorted to dimly lit wooden booths and secluded from other guests by bamboo shades. There are tabletop call buttons...
Read MoreBar Boulud
Address: 1900 Broadway, near 64th St. Phone: (212) 595-0303 Dinner: Sun.-Thurs., 5-11 p.m; Fri. & Sat., 5 p.m.- midnight; Lunch: Mon.-Fri., noon-3:30 p.m. Cuisine: Contemporary French. Vibe: Bustling wine bar. Occasion: Charcuterie quest; casual UWS dinner. Don’t Miss Dish: Pate grand-mere; braised flatiron steak. Price: Appetizers, $8-$18; entrees, $17-$28; desserts, $6-$12. Reservations: Highly recommended. Chef Daniel Boulud’s new French bistro, which opened across from Lincoln Center, is unlike any other Boulud production. This is the iconic chef’s answer to Manhattan’s demand for informal wine bars. His talent for producing outstanding French cuisine is matched by equally impeccable service (Daniel, Café Boulud). At Daniel (his haute flagship), servers glide gracefully through the dining room. At Bar Boulud, they frantically weave through the narrow quarters, crowded with oenophiles, locals and Boulud devotees. Guests swarm the hostess stand; the less desirable front...
Read MoreBar Blanc
Address: 142 W. 10th St., at Waverly Place. Phone: (212) 255-2330. Dinner: Tues.-Sun., 5:30-11 p.m. Closed Mondays. Cuisine: Creative European. Vibe: Stylish lounge. Occasion: Intimate date; chic dining. Don’t Miss Dish: Four-cheese ravioli; ginger-roasted red snapper. Price: Appetizers, $12-$18; entrees, $26-$36; desserts, $10. Reservations: Recommended. Everyone looks beautiful at Bar Blanc. Perhaps it’s the way the candlelight bounces off the polished white tables that casts an unmistakably flattering glow throughout the space. It’s a stylish stage set in the West Village, where diners lounge on shimmery banquettes in the 65-seat dining room. Bar stools wear plush leather and even the servers are fashionably dressed. But make no mistake: Bar Blanc is an ambitious restaurant in a laid-back disguise. This supposed “wine bar” offers a four-course tasting menu ($72) that begins with steamed foie gras and follows with sea scallops...
Read MoreDovetail
Address: 103 W. 77th St., at Columbus Ave. Phone: (212) 362-3800 Dinner: Mon.-Sat., 5:30 p.m.-11 p.m.; Sun., 5:30 pm.-10 p.m. Cuisine: New American Vibe: Understated townhouse Occasion: Destination dining; civilized date Don’t Miss Dish: Salmon a la plancha; grilled venison Price: Appetizers, $12-$16; entrees, $28-$36; desserts, $10. Reservations: Recommended Eating salmon on the upper West Side doesn’t sound particularly thrilling, but at Dovetail it’s a religious experience. The rosy fish, grilled à la plancha, is exhilarated by a creamy horseradish gribiche (egg and mustard sauce) and bursts of caviar. With its buttery finish, it’s an intense and entirely satisfying appetizer. So is much of the sophisticated cooking at Dovetail, a New American restaurant that recently opened up on the upper West Side. Chef-owner John Fraser isn’t concerned with the trend toward hypercasual dining. With a rigorous sherry menu and...
Read MoreBrasserie 44
Address: 44 W. 44th St., between Fifth & Sixth Aves. Phone: (212) 944-8844 Hours: Dinner, Sun.-Thur., 5:30 p.m.-11 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 5:30 p.m.-midnight. Breakfast & lunch service. Cuisine: Modern American. Vibe: Yacht adrift. Occasion: Under-the-radar dinner; hotel dining. Don’t Miss Dish: Sweet onion tart; olive oil poached salmon. Price: Appetizers, $14-24; entrees, $24-44; desserts, $12-15. Reservations: Accepted. Capsule: The nautically themed Brasserie 44 feels like a restaurant adrift in the Royalton Hotel. A $17.5 million facelift and a newly minted restaurant were meant to reignite the once iconic Royalton Hotel. So where is everybody? Media moguls once flocked to the Philippe Starck-designed boutique hotel. Its futuristic lobby looked like a runway leading to its restaurant, 44, the city’s most fashionable cafeteria. But even the best of trends fall out of fashion. After a dramatic renovation, the Royalton Hotel’s lobby now...
Read MoreVinas
Address: 109 South Sixth St., near Bedford Ave., Williamsburg (718) 782-2333 Dinner: Sun.-Thur., 5 p.m.-11 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 5 p.m.-midnight. Closed Sundays. Cuisine: Contemporary Latin. Vibe: Vibrant Spanish villa. Occasion: Neighborhood dinner; Group dinner. Don’t miss dish: Pinchos de res (cubed filet mignon); escolar in blood orange sauce. Price: Appetizers, $7-12; entrees, $15-21; desserts, $7-8. Reservations: Accepted. These days, there are many temptations in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. I learned this en route to Viñas, a new Latin American restaurant in this burgeoning neighborhood. First, there’s Peter Luger. The aroma of its butter-sopped porterhouses wafts out onto the streets. Literally. If you can resist this seduction, there’s yet another: the lure of Dressler, with its romantic portrait window and sophisticated American fare. Though nearly impossible to refuse both temptations on my first visit, I persevered toward a quiet street with few signs...
Read MoreLunetta
Address: 920 Broadway, at 21 St. Phone: (212) 533-3663 Dinner: Mon.-Thurs., 5-11 p.m.; Fri. & Sat., 5 p.m.-midnight; Sun., 5-11 p.m. Cuisine: Italian-American Vibe: Retro glamour Occasion: Group dinner, casual date Don’t Miss Dish: Ricotta bruschetta, pumpkin mezzaluna Price: Appetizers, $6-$18; entrees, $15-$23; desserts, $7-$9 Reservations: Recommended Capsule: Manhattanified Lunetta is but a pale reflection of the original. Manhattan has seen its share of Brooklyn-Italian imports over the past two years. Frankies Spuntino set up an outpost on the lower East Side, Aurora surfaced in SoHo and Lunetta just recently cropped up in the Flatiron District. But Lunetta’s journey across the bridge was by far the most untraditional and storied of them all. Partners Adam Shepard and Jim Heckler launched the Boerum Hill eatery as a modern Japanese restaurant named Taku. Though Shepard received critical acclaim as a chef,...
Read More21 Club
Address: 21 W. 52nd St., near Fifth Ave.Phone: (212) 582-7200Dinner: Mon.-Thur., 5:30 p.m.-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 5:30 p.m.-11:30 p.m; lunch, Mon.-Fri., 12 p.m.- 2:30 p.m. Closed Sundays.Cuisine: AmericanVibe: Midtown country clubOccassion: Power-lunch spot; time-warp dinnerDon’t Miss Dish: Mixed grill of game, pommes souffles, apple crisp.Drink Specialty:Exemplary global wine selection.Price: Appetizers, $12-23; entrees, $30-45; desserts, $10.50. $35 prix fixe lunch menu; $40 dinner prix fixe menu.Reservations: Recommended; dress code strictly enforced. A changing of the guard in the kitchen demands a revisit to this NYC classic. There is nothing subtle about the dress code inspection at the ’21’ Club. It is an unapologetic once-over by hosts, who vigilantly deny entrance to guests in jeans or sneakers. Though this midtown institution may have surrendered ties at lunch, it strictly enforces an old-school jacket policy. It’s ironic that a former speakeasy with bar...
Read MoreSmith’s
Address: 79 MacDougal St., between Bleecker & Houston Sts. Phone: (212) 260-0100 Hours: Dinner, Mon.-Thu., 5-11 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 5-11:30 p.m. Cuisine: Modern American Vibe: Glamorous dining car Occasion: Romantic date; see and be seen dinner Don’t Miss Dish: Portuguese sardines, steamed egg with polenta, roast lamb saddle Price: Appetizers, $6-16; entrées, $21-26; desserts, $8-11 Reservations: Highly recommended Capsule: Smith’s is not just another pretty face Step into Smith’s main dining room and you’ll feel like you just stepped aboard a luxury railroad that’s made its final stop in the West Village. It’s appointed with black-leather booths, chandelier sconces and a mirrored ceiling – a stylish setting that’s attracting nearly as stylish a crowd. Smith’s rests in a long, narrow storefront in a neighborhood populated by dive bars, coffee shops and NYU students. It’s an unlikely destination for a glamorous...
Read MoreIrving Mill
Address: 116 E. 16th St., between Union Square East & Irving Place Phone: (212) 254-1600 Dinner: Fri., 5:30-11 p.m. Sat. 5-11 p.m., Sun. 5-10 p.m. Lunch: Mon-Sun., noon-2:30 p.m. Cuisine: Seasonal American Vibe: Sprawling farmhouse chic Occassion: Group dinner; family affair. Don’t Miss Dish: Cauliflower ravioli; roasted Arctic char. Drink Specialty: Impressive wine by the glass offering. Price: Appetizers, $10-$16; entrees, $24-$30; desserts, $9. Reservations: Recommended Capsule: A diluted brand of seasonal American crops up at Irving Mill. It’s not enough for restaurants to showcase their greenmarket produce on the plate anymore. They are wearing this season’s harvest as if it’s the hottest fashion accessory – a culinary badge of honor. Just follow the trail of fruits and vegetables to your table. A pomegranate-stocked wheelbarrow greets you at the entrance of Union Square’s Irving Mill. There’s a “harvest table”...
Read MoreShorty’s.32
Address: 199 Prince St., between MacDougal & Sullivan Sts. Phone: (212) 375-8275 Dinner: Sun., Tue. & Wed., 6 p.m.-12 a.m., Thu.-Sat., 6 p.m.-3 a.m. Closed Mon. Cuisine: New American Vibe: Quaint neighborhood spot Occasion: Casual date, neighborhood go-to dinner Don’t Miss Dish: Codfish with Gruyere broth, roast chicken Drink Specialty: Stargarita Price: Appetizers, $7-$14; entrees, $18-$25; desserts, $5-$7 Reservations: Not accepted Soho’s best-kept secret harbors a talented chef and a triumphant roast chicken. “I’ll have the chicken,” is a request I’m hearing a lot lately in prominent New York City restaurants. What was historically a predictable dish designated for the unadventurous eater has recently become a first-string player on many esteemed menus. Union Square Cafe has a moist rendition in their back pocket. So does Cafe Boulud. And then there’s the roast chicken at Shorty’s.32. Chef and co-owner Josh...
Read MoreAthens Tavern
Cuisine: Contemporary Greek Vibe: Unassuming neighborhood spot Occasion: Family dinner Don’t-Miss Dish: Baked whole fish; rabbit with bergamot Drink Specialty: Greek wines Price: Appetizers, $5-$12.95; entrees, $17-$27; desserts, $6.50-$8.50 Reservations Accepted, but not necessary. Address: 23-01 31 St., at the corner of 23rd Ave. (Astoria, NY) Phone: (718)267-0800 Capsule: This earnest Greek restaurant delivers a terrific baked whole fish. You don’t dine at Athens Tavern for its decorative nods to the Mediterranean coast. It’s a humble Astoria eatery on a street with a healthy scattering of Greek restaurants. There is no vaulted ceiling or breezy white drapery. It’s a simple space with white paper-covered tables, windows facing the street and terra-cotta walls and kitschy canvases of men performing a traditional Greek dance. You go to Athens Tavern for the whole baked fish stuffed with wild greens. On some nights,...
Read MoreAllen & Delancey – Reviewed
115 Allen St. (btwn. Delancey & Rivington Sts.) Phone: (212) 253-5400 Hours: Dinner, Mon.-Sat., 6 p.m.-12 a.m., Sun., 5 p.m.-11 a.m. CUISINE Contemporary European. VIBE Cozy lower East Side haunt. OCCASION Romantic dinner; Bar dining. DON’T-MISS DISH Caramelized bone marrow, Sweetbread raviolo PRICE Appetizers, $12-18; entrees, $20-29; desserts, $10. RESERVATIONS Highly recommended. At Allen & Delancey, a well-heeled woman spooned bone marrow into her mouth. It was a nonchalant bar gesture, followed by a leisurely sip of a cocktail. This is a culinary sign of the times. Henry David Thoreau once wrote, “Live deep and suck out all the marrow of life.” Dining on bone marrow was likely not what the philosopher had in mind, but fitting, as this is not an uncommon sight at New York City restaurants in the 21st century. Allen & Delancey is the...
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