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Le Relais Louis XIII
The thing about dining in Paris nowadays is that there are so many modern French restaurants that it’s hard to find a traditional, fine French one. You know, the kind that features Quenelles, Frog Legs Provencale, Sole Meuniere, and a proper Grand Marnier Souffle (I don’t know about you, but I’m salivating already!). Classics are what French food is about really. After eating my way through Paris for six weeks, I’d yet to even spy Quenelles — light-as-air fish dumplings — on a menu. In fact, I was worried this menu warhorse was in danger of extinction. It was actually a local, a born and bred Parisian driver named Thomas, who tipped me off to Le Relais Louis XIII. Now, I’d done plenty of due diligence on where to eat and Louis XIII was not on anybody’s must-try list....
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Le Comptoir Du Relais
Some restaurants have that certain magic you can’t quite put into words. You know, one of those spots that everyone wants to not only see and be seen, but also wants to eat at. That’s not an easy or common combination. Just think about the restaurant at the Hotel Costes. Locals and tourists alike aspire to sit on the terrace at this sceney spot, sipping rose and people watching. But what do they eat? The same thing they eat at every single Hotel Costes restaurant (and there are nearly 100 Costes-owned and run eateries in Paris), and it’s all mediocre at best. Le Comptoir, on the other hand, is one of those few, magical restaurants that manages to be everything to everyone. It’s fashionable without trying to be and the food is terrific. Though it’s been around for...
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Marche Biologique Raspail
Maybe this market was overhyped to me because I didn’t think much of it, at least in comparison to the other outdoor markets the city has to offer. Then again, I’m more concerned with excellent ingredients than the importance of organic, which, of course, is important. Just not as important as great-tasting produce, bread, and cheese. And really, who wants to eat gluten free bread if they don’t have to? Although, if you do have a gluten free intolerance, this is a welcome option in a city that’s still catching up in the organic, gluten-free, allergy free department. In case you’re wondering, organic in French is called Bio or Biologique, and Marche Raspail’s Sunday market is entirely bio, which is pretty unique in these parts. That means every French hippie and forward-thinking farmer descends on the Left Bank...
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