Florence Kahn
You wouldn’t expect to find a boulangerie in the heart of the Marais named after the first Jewish woman to serve in the United States Congress. But there’s nothing American about this shop, easily identifiable by its beautiful, blue and white tile mosaic on the facade. (It’s actually a Paris landmark, which originally opened back in 1932.) In fact, it’s one of the last standing, traditional Jewish bakeries in Paris’s Jewish Quarter, and undoubtedly the best, especially for Pre-War Europe classics…
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Bones
“We could be anywhere but Paris,” my dining companion uttered as we sat down to dinner at Bones. In fact, it feels more like Bushwick, Brooklyn than Paris, France. The servers all speak English and the crowd takes cigarette breaks between each course. This new hotspot looks more like a construction site than a restaurant that’s open for business, taking the notion of ‘bare bones’ to a new level. The floors are cement, the walls completely unfinished and coming undone, some brick, others stone or unfinished plaster, and a metal beam in the center of it all. Just about everything is exposed. Bones is where the hipsters hang out these days, listening to alternative music pumping through the stereo, while feasting on hearts and other eccentric body parts. Dinner here is like an episode of Fear Factor:Food (if that were...
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David Toutain
Full disclosure: I’m not a big fan of the whole molecular gastronomy trend not just in France, but at-large (though I’m more than happy to be proven wrong and I most definitely (and thankfully) am wrong… once in awhile anyway). But like it or not, Paris seems to be embracing this avant-garde school of cooking wholeheartedly, which is why you’ll find so many mad scientists in Parisian kitchens. It’s not that I hate foam and edible dirt and all. I just want to eat good food that tastes like food rather than like an idea. Make no mistake, David Toutain falls into the avant-garde camp of cooking. In fact, David Toutain is one of the most buzzed about of the bunch, which is why I had to take a 12:45 lunch reservation because I couldn’t get in for dinner. (I promise...
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Marche President Wilson
Marché President Wilson is proof that outdoor markets don’t have to be ‘rough and tumble’ so to speak. In fact, this one on the luxe Avenue President Wilson just across from the Seine River is one situated on a very wide and stunning street in the 16th arrondissement. What that means in layman’s terms is room to wander without elbowing your way down the shopping aisles. There’s plenty of room to wander in peace in this airy, al fresco marche with top-notch ingredients (the best in Paris). Look no further than the fish stalls to see the impeccable spreads of seafood & fish – from six types of Escargot to eight varieties of Shrimp, beautiful St. Pierre, Turbot, Flounder, and heaps more all displayed on ice. That’s just the beginning…
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Marche Bastille
There is no shortage of outdoor food markets in Paris, that’s for sure, but some are way better than others, and Bastille happens to be my favorite. Why? Because there’s so much variety. The biggest problem is how much there is just how bustling and big it is. My advice is to do a dry run without stopping to shop to get the lay of the land, which involves a hefty slew of produce stands, several local cheese and fish shops, bread stalls, spices, nuts, olives, you name it. I say go hungry, and preferably on a Sunday morning, when you can make a pit stop at…
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Le Coq Rico
Planning a visit to the famed Sacré-Couer in Montmartre? There aren’t a lot of great dining options in this neck of the woods, aside from Le Coq Rico. If you want to cross Roast Chicken, the French way, off your “to-do” list, this “bistrotisserie” (how great is that word?!) is the perfect spot to do just that. It’s a beautiful spot with dark wood floors, creamy stone walls, glass wine walls, and white marble-topped tables that looks more like a Swiss chalet than a French bistro. Toward the entrance, just by the bar, is the main attraction, the rotisserie with several chickens slowly spinning round and round. Take one look at the menu and you’ll see that chicken is the name of the game here. Chicken in all forms. There’s several Chicken Eggs poached, scrambled, fried and battered. We...
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Marche Des Enfants Rouges
What was once an orphanage for children in the 16th century — orphans who were dressed in red, thus the Enfants Rouges part of the name — morphed (all the way back in 1615) into one of the funkiest global food courts in Paris. (It also happens to be one of the oldest covered markets in Paris, too.) You may be in France, but you can eat like you’re in Lebanon, Japan, or Italy. Although, I say skip the pizza (it’s mediocre at best) and head to the Moroccan stall, called Traiteur Morocain, for killer Tagines, like Chicken with Olives or Lamb with Almonds, and some of the fluffiest cous cous I’ve had. Oh, and finish with their exemplary Baklava and Sweet Mint Tea. I’m surprised at how decent the bento box is at the Japanese stall as...
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Terroir Parisien
I’ve eaten more than my fair share of tarte tatin in France and beyond, and I simply can’t find one that comes close to Yannick Alleno’s take at Terroir Parisien at the Palais Brongniart, near the French Stock Exchange. What makes this classic upside down apple tart so tricky to make is that it either comes out moist and dewy with a respectively (and tragically) dewy crust, or with a crispy crust and dried-out apples. But Alleno nails it, producing beautifully caramelized apples on a perfectly flaky bottom. I guess we shouldn’t expect less from the chef who earned three Michelin stars at Le Meurice, but Terroir Parisien is a decidedly dressed down Alleno. But let’s back up for a minute. After all, Terroir Parisien is a bistro, not a bakery or patisserie, which wheels and deals in artisanal...
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Gosselin
What can I say? Croissants just taste better in Paris. I think it’s the superiority of the butter they have, which is divinely rich and smooth. There are so many gloriously flaky specimens to sample all over the city, but for my money, the best of the bunch is at Philippe Gosselin. Their croissant is a textural marvel with a supremely crispy exterior and uber buttery interior. Gosselin also has a mean baguette, which ranks among the top in Paris. In fact, Gosselin’s actually won the Grand Prix for Paris’s best traditional baguette, so consider grabbing a baguette sandwich to eat for lunch later. Or just savor this squishy, slight sweet loaf on its own. And grab one of their powder sugar-dusted almond croissant, too. This spacious boulangerie and patisserie is located in the 7th, just a short...
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Le Grand Vefour
Sometimes a restaurant can play a part. Some make you feel cool and in the know, while others make you feel sexy and in the mood. Le Grand Vefour makes you feel like a fancy Frenchmen (or women), so you’ll want to dress up for the part. If you’re looking to dine back in time — think France a la Louis XV — this two century old institution, which opened in the Palais Royal all the way back in 1784 is a marvelous option. Dining at Le Grand Vefour is like dining in a museum and a stunning one at that. The neoclassic walls and ceilings are trimmed in mirrors with glass paintings of goddesses, red velvet banquettes, brass fixtures dangling from above, and tables dressed in white tablecloths. It’s a beautiful old school room where Victor Hugo and Napoleon...
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Brasserie Thoumieux
The room itself is almost worth a visit to this stylish haunt adjacent to the Hotel Le Thomieux in the 7th arrondissement. Really, all French brasseries should look this fabulous at 90 something years old. You see Brasserie Thomieux’s been around since the 1920’s, though it’s had some major work done since it first opened. There are mirrors on every wall, a flurry of soft bistro globes dangling from the ceiling, beautiful brass trimmings, and plush red banquettes and chairs at every table. But my favorite decor element are a scattering of emerald green lights that give the room a magical glow — that kind of glow that so many bistros stateside try to imitate. (Balthazar comes to mind.) You’d never know it’s a Costes Hotel, which is a good thing considering all their other restaurants have virtually the same menus....
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Cafe Des Musees
One glance at Cafe De Musees and you’ll wonder why it always seems so packed. As far as looks go, it’s on the uglier side of the spectrum. (Just saying.) It’s located in the Marais, just a stone’s throw from the Place De Vosges, but it has little in common with its stylish locale. Cafe De Musees belongs more to a humble, older school of bistros, built not for the scene, but for the food, which is down to earth and soul-satisfying. There are two floors for dining as well as a narrow sidewalk out front with a few two tops. The interior is outfitted with wood tables, tile floors, maroon banquettes and a chalkboard with specials. The wine list is solid, peppered with lots of good options. I say go big at Cafe De Musees, meaning the...
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La Boulangerie Beaumarchais
The reason you don’t read more about this boulangerie is because no one really knows the actual name of this underrated bakery. Some people call it Boulangerie 28 (which refers to its street number), while others refer to it as Boulangerie Beaumarchais (it’s on Boulevard Beaumarchais), or even Boulangerie-Patisserie Beaumarchais because that’s what it says on the sign above the door. You’d think they owners would be concerned with branding themselves a bakery to reckon with, but the older woman who seems to own it seems pretty indifferent to everything except counting out your change. Why should she worry when there’s a line so often trailing out the door? I happily waited my turn many a time for a taste of their Olive Baguettine, which is quite simply to-die-for. I’ve never had a plusher baguette in my life, a...
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Le 6 Paul Bert
Ever since Bertrand Auboyneau opened Bistrot Paul Bert, Rue Paul Bert has become somewhat of a dining destination. His latest venture Le 6 Paul Bert, named after its address, is located just down the street from his always buzzy bistro in an equally laidback looking space, furbished with light wood floors, picture windows, glossy red tables, gray snakeskin banquettes, and a clever chandelier made out of forks and spoons. Think farmhouse chic. You wouldn’t expect to find a tasting menu at a casual spot with a long communal table, but these days you can never tell. Le 6 Paul Bert is an ambitious spot with a daily changing menu with no real loyalty to country. In other words, it’s not a French restaurant, but a seasonal one. Maybe that’s why I was disappointed with dinner here and why so...
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Carette
Maybe I’m biased because I lived just a few floors above this cafe, but Carette is a great pit stop when you find yourself in the Marais. Would I go out of my way to eat here or dub it a destination? No, not by any means, but I certainly didn’t mind eating my lunch or breakfast here on a regular basis, and as a hard care foodie, that says a lot. Besides, the Marais is a destination worth visiting for many reasons; the exquisite Place Des Vosges, the Jewish Quarter, the Victor Hugo museum, the shops and much more. While you’re in the neighborhood, grab a croissant at Carette or a hazelnut and raisin flute. The French have a way with eggs and so does Carette, turning out rich and creamy scrambled eggs, served with a house-baked baguette....
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Roseval
Think there’s only one Brooklyn or downtown LA? Think again. There’s a young and hip generation of chefs striking off on their own to make their mark on the Paris dining scene. Since they haven’t hit it big yet, they’re doing it on the cheap in funky, off the beaten path spaces. In the case of Roseval, it’s more off the beaten path than most in the 20th arrondissement on a random corner with not much else in sight. Inside, there’s a tiny bar and a few steps up, a tiny dining room with several two tops packed in. Aside from concrete floors and an exposed wood beam & brick ceiling, there isn’t much in the way of decor. But it’s not the setting I read so much buzz about: It’s the inventive cooking that chefs Michael Greenwald and...
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Rimal
Lebanese in Paris? You’d be surprised how much ethnic food there is to eat in this beautiful city. Moroccan, Vietnamese, Japanese, Thai, and lots of Lebanese. If you need a night off from Snails Bourgogne and Steak Frites, I recommend you go the Moroccan or Lebanese route. (Japanese, especially sushi, is not the way to go in France.) Rimal is one of the most well known and respected Lebanese restaurants in the city, located a bit out of the way in the 17th arrondissement. There’s also two, Rimal takeaway spots, one just across the street and the other on Boulevard Saint Germain in the 6th arrondissement. You’ll pull up to find a glass frontage with tables looking out at the street. The decor is subtle but elegant, with wood floors, white tablecloths and shimmery crystal chandeliers hanging overhead. The...
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Camille
It’s hard to find a great neighborhood spot that you want to return to again and again. Especially for someone like me who loves to try new things and new places. Which is why I’m such a fan of Camille in the Marais. While nothing on the menu is earth-shattering, nearly everything is very good and it’s right in the heart of the Marais. It’s the perfect people-watching bistro with plenty of two tops along the highly trafficked Rue Francs-Bourgeois. And because the Marais attracts so many tourists to shop, the servers also speak English, so ordering is thankfully not a struggle. The kitchen turns out a terrific Steak Tartare, and a properly unctuous Andouillette Sausage with mashed potatoes (if you’re into that kind of thing). But my favorite dishes are ones I never found anywhere else in...
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Marche Biologique Raspail
Maybe this market was overhyped to me because I didn’t think much of it, at least in comparison to the other outdoor markets the city has to offer. Then again, I’m more concerned with excellent ingredients than the importance of organic, which, of course, is important. Just not as important as great-tasting produce, bread, and cheese. And really, who wants to eat gluten free bread if they don’t have to? Although, if you do have a gluten free intolerance, this is a welcome option in a city that’s still catching up in the organic, gluten-free, allergy free department. In case you’re wondering, organic in French is called Bio or Biologique, and Marche Raspail’s Sunday market is entirely bio, which is pretty unique in these parts. That means every French hippie and forward-thinking farmer descends on the Left Bank...
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Chez Janou
The Mousse au Chocolat is reason enough to make a pit stop at this buzzy neighborhood spot in the Marais. Do not pass go without the mousse. Because what arrives at the table is an enormous bowl of velvety deep, dark chocolate mousse and a wooden spoon, so you can serve yourself… as much as you please! That’s right. Eat your heart out until your stuffed silly or overdose on sugar. It’s deliciously dangerous and perfect with a glass of French red, of course! Unfortunately, the chocolate mousse is the best thing Chez Janou’s got going aside from outdoor tables and the ability to lure in the locals night after night. Which is what makes it a great pit stop post-dinner. If you decide to come for lunch or dinner, there’s a fine Salade Janou with mozzarella, jamon, and...
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