Hundred Acres is not even a ghost of its old self
‘Hundred Acres’ Imagine a restaurant on a quaint, tree-lined street. Nearby, a few lonely restaurants attract just enough attention to survive. But this one is haunted – haunted by the ghosts of restaurants past. Perhaps you’ve eaten in a place like this, where yesterday seems as vivid as the present. You go to the door you’ve always gone to, only to find it’s moved 40 feet north. A young female hostess greets you, and yet you can’t help expecting to see the gruff, French maitre d’ who stood at a different door for 20 years. A grandfather clock – junked long ago – stands stubbornly in the corner sounding the stroke of midnight. And the newly gray walls suddenly fade to dingy green. You open the menu and it’s a palimpsest – traces of the old menu visible...
Read MoreSheridan Square
Sunshine for News Sheridan Square I remember the night the Russian Tea Room reopened – Nov. 4, 2006. I was probably one of the first people to make a reservation. The reason was the chef, Gary Robins. I had eaten his cooking at the Biltmore Room a few years earlier, and I wanted to see how Russian tasted when it came from his kitchen. I still remember the foie gras pelmeni. It was the very dish that Eloise at the Plaza would’ve ordered up if she had the flu. I thought of it fondly long after Robins left the Russian Tea Room. Then for a couple of years the question was, where in the world is Gary Robins? Now we know. Or at least we thought we did. He went to Seventh Ave. South and took his...
Read MoreScarpetta
The second coming of the Meatpacking District. 355 W. 14th St., at Ninth Ave. (212) 691-0555 Seven days a week, 5:30 p.m.-11:30 p.m. CUISINE Southern Italian. VIBE Grown-up Meatpacking. OCCASION Trendy date; group dining. DON’T-MISS DISH Spaghetti with tomato & basil; scallop crudo; roasted capretto. PRICE Appetizers, $12-$17; entrees, $22-$37; dessert, $11. RESERVATIONS Highly recommended. In the past three weeks, I’ve eaten at Scarpetta three times. And every time, I ate too much. I ate polenta and panna cotta. I ate borlotti bean soup and imported burrata, braised short ribs and boneless veal shank. I ate scallops seared and as crudo. I ate cod and capretto. I ate ravioli, raviolini, tagliatelle, spaghetti, stromboli and lots of mascarpone butter. Wait, there’s more. I ate “pie” and “cheesecake.” Not to mention yellowtail, octopus, tuna and fritto misto. And all the homemade...
Read MoreWildwood BBQ
Serving up ecumenical barbecue in Gramercy Park Address: 225 Park Ave. South, at 18th St., (212) 533-2500 Hours: Mon.-Thurs., 11:30 a.m.-11:30 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 11:30 a.m.-12:30 a.m.; Sat., noon-midnight; Sun., noon-11 p.m. Cuisine: Regional barbecue Vibe: Big-city barn Occasion: Festive occasion; group dining. Don’t Miss Dish: Barbecue burger; Texas smoked brisket; carrot cake. Price: Appetizers, $5-$9.50; entrées, $9.95-$28.95; dessert, $7. Reservation: Recommended If you want barbecue in New York City these days, you have to ask yourself what kind you’re craving. You can get down & dirty barbecue – sauce on your T-shirt – at Dinosaur BBQ. You can get artisanal barbecue – sauce on your business suit – at Blue Smoke. But if you want breezy barbeque – sauce on your white leather banquette – you should try Wildwood BBQ, a few blocks from Blue Smoke in Gramercy Park....
Read MoreBenoit
The not-so-fine art of fine French dining. 60 W. 55th St., between Fifth & Sixth Aves., (646) 943-7373. Seven days a week. Breakfast, Mon.-Fri., 7:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; lunch, Mon.-Sat., 11:45 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner, Mon.-Sun., 5:30-11 p.m. CUISINE French bistro. VIBE Elegant midtown bistro. OCCASION Group dining, business lunch. DON’T-MISS DISH Cassoulet, onion soup gratinee, escargots. PRICE Appetizers, $9-$19; entrees, $19-$48; dessert, $7-18. RESERVATIONS Recommended. No one expects humble from Alain Ducasse. But that’s what you get at Benoit. There’s even a dollar menu. It has one dish: Egg Mayo, a terrific deviled egg with a fluffy, sweet filling. It makes for a glorious, four-bite lunch. Ducasse now runs three Benoits – the original Paris bistro (which opened in 1912), another in Tokyo and the newest, at 60 W. 55th St., the address of the old Le Cote Basque. A...
Read MoreBar Milano
CUISINE: Northern Italian. VIBE: Elegant and deafening Murray Hill spot. OCCASION: Casual date; breakfast; neighborhood dining. DON’T MISS DISH: Cabbage with farro; caviar-topped potato with egg; monkfish and foie gras. PRICE: Appetizers, $9-$24; entrees, $20-$43; dessert, $5. RESERVATIONS: Highly recommended. 323 Third Ave., at 24th St., (212) 683-3035. Breakfast, lunch and dinner; seven days a week, 8 a.m.-3 a.m. Dinner served seven days, 5 p.m.-midnight. Bar menu available till 2 a.m. Whoever heard of a month-long wait for a reservation at a restaurant at 24th and Third? But that’s what you get when brothers Joe and Jason Denton open a restaurant in Manhattan. Most of their places – ‘ino, ‘inoteca, Lupa – have been rustic, wine-focused spots. But at Bar Milano, on the border of Gramercy Park and Murray Hill, they’re challenging themselves and their clientele with upscale cooking...
Read MorePomme de Terre
“It’s shocking,” a diner at Pomme de Terre said one night. “I’ve lived down the street for 20 years. A few months ago this was a seedy bodega that dealt drugs.” Now that seedy bodega in Ditmas Park, Brooklyn, is a charming corner bistro near a laundromat, a CVS pharmacy and a few takeout spots — a culinary nowhere along Newkirk Ave. This snug 40-seat space is appointed with vibrant murals that resemble vintage French posters. The original tin-ceiling remains, newly restored and painted over in a sunny yellow. Through large curtained windows, I saw patrons of every age waiting along the sidewalk. From the expressions on diners’ faces, the neighborhood seems thrilled with the dizzying transformation. So are co-owners Gary Jonas and Allison McDowell, who are residents of Ditmas Park themselves. They opened their first restaurant — The...
Read MoreOlana
A culinary homage to the Hudson Valley. 72 Madison Ave., between 27th & 28th Sts., (212) 725-4900 Dinner, Mon.-Sat., 5:30 p.m.-1 p.m.; lunch, Mon.-Fri., 11:45 a.m.-2:30 p.m. CUISINE Modern American. VIBE Dated elegance. OCCASION Group dinner; neighborhood dining. DON’T-MISS DISH Grouper ravioli; roasted rabbit; white peach & cherry mousse. PRICE Appetizers, $11-$18; entrees, $24-$38; dessert, $8-12. RESERVATIONS Recommended. New Yorkers take their neighborhood restaurants seriously. Every new eatery that opens around the corner reinforces the notion that you live in an important culinary zip code. Olana, which launched on the fringes of the Flatiron District two months ago, is a refreshing addition for residents along what has been a lonely stretch of lower Madison Ave. Olana doesn’t strut for attention with glitzy decor. The setting is civilly outfitted with spacious banquettes, red mohair chairs and cherry wood paneling. With...
Read MoreAgo
New York gets a hollow replica of the original Ago. 377 Greenwich St., at N. Moore St., (212) 925-3797 Dinner, Sun.-Thurs., 5:30 p.m.-11 p.m., Fri. & Sat.,5:30 p.m.-midnight; lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. daily. CUISINE Tuscan Italian VIBE Hip, bustling trattoria OCCASION Group dinner; Tribeca dining DON’T-MISS DISH Burrata con fagiolini; eggplant parmigiana PRICE Dinner, appetizers, $12-$18; entrees, $19-$44; dessert, $10-$12 RESERVATIONS Recommended The New York debut of Ago restaurant in the newly opened Greenwich Hotel had the makings of a summer blockbuster. The famous West Hollywood flagship has long been a powerful magnet for celebrities and movie moguls, including film giants Robert De Niro and the Weinstein brothers, who are partners in the Ago empire. This Tribeca outpost is the fourth offshoot of chef-partner Agostino Sciandri‘s Italian eatery, following expansions in Las Vegas and Miami. The recruitment of Grayling...
Read MoreEleven Madison Park
A spectacular reinvention. 11 Madison Ave. at 24th St. Phone: (212) 889-0905 Dinner: Sun.-Thurs. 5:30-10 p.m.; Fri. & Sat. 5:30-10:30 p.m. Lunch: Mon.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Brunch: Sat. & Sun. 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Not many restaurateurs are as skilled at pulling off a top-notch $4.75 burger (Shake Shack) as they are a $145 haute French tasting menu (Eleven Madison Park). But Danny Meyer has built an enviable empire of 11 winning lowbrow and high-end restaurants. On a recent evening, the famed Shake Shack burger drew a line that spanned the length of an entire city block. I was en route to Eleven Madison Park, the most opulent feather in Meyer’s cap, when the sight of cheese fries and custard at the pickup window nearly lured me off course. Had I caved, I would’ve missed one of the most spectacular...
Read MoreKorhogo 126
A modest Brooklyn restaurant unleashes exotic African spices. 126 Union St., near Columbia St. Phone: (718) 855-4405 Dinner: Weds., Thurs., Sun., 5-10 p.m.; Fri. and Sat., 5.-11 p.m. Some restaurants lack soul. Not Korhogo 126. You can taste the soul of its owners on nearly every plate. This French West African eatery marries the culinary heritages of Parisian-born Emmanuelle Chiche and chef Abdhul Traore, who made his New York City debut at Les Enfants Terribles on the lower East Side. Traore hails from Korhogo, a small town in the Ivory Coast that’s become this prideful new restaurant’s namesake. The chef injects a rush of seasonings and flavors from his homeland into French bistro staples. This translates to a menu where African classics, like grilled prawns in a pili pili (chili pepper) sauce appear alongside steak frites. But here the...
Read MoreElettaria
A hip stage for modern American with an Indian edge. 33 W. Eighth St., near MacDougal (212) 677-3833 Dinner, Mon.-Sun., 5:30 p.m.-11:30 p.m. CUISINE Indian-inflected American VIBE Hip Village haunt OCCASION Bar dining; downtown date DON’T-MISS DISH Crispy pig’s feet; fried quail. PRICE Appetizers, $9-16; entrees, $18-25; desserts, $7. RESERVATIONS Recommended From the looks of it, you would never know there is a well-trained chef hustling in the kitchen at Eletteria, a restaurant that just debuted in Greenwich Village. Floating doors, cropped paintings and a fake staircase suggest a funhouse for frivolous culinary affairs. So does the audience, a hip, young crowd who tend to flock to the newest restaurants for sport. But a deep-fried quail suggests serious pleasures. When skin this crisp gives way to such wondrously sweet meat, you don’t debate the merits of frying. It’s perfectly...
Read MoreEighty One
An upscale newcomer on the upper West Side. 45 W. 81st St., between Central Park West & Columbus Ave. (212) 873-8181 Dinner, Sun.-Thur., 5 p.m.-10:30 p.m; Fri.-Sat., 5 p.m.-11:30 p.m. CUISINE Modern American VIBE Upper West Side elegance OCCASION Romantic date; fine dining DON’T-MISS DISH Sea scallop & foie gras ravioli; dry-aged Black Angus sirloin PRICE Appetizers, $12-39; entrees, $29-42; desserts, $12 RESERVATIONS Recommended With Dovetail, Bar Boulud, With Dovetail, Bar Boulud, Madeleine Mae and the latest arrival of Eighty One, the upper West Side is having an impressive run of new restaurants. If I lived in the neighborhood, I would certainly make a habit out of the scallop and foie gras ravioli at Eighty One. It’s a splendid appetizer conceived by chef-owner Ed Brown, who served as executive chef at the Sea Grill for 14 years. If you’re...
Read MoreMerkato 55
A splashy and unlikely outpost for African cooking. 55 Gansevoort St., between Greenwich & Washington Sts. (212) 255-8555 Dinner, Mon.-Sun., 5:30 p.m.-midnight CUISINE Pan-African VIBE African chic brasserie OCCASION Trendy group dining; casual date. DON’T-MISS DISH Lamb tartar; octopus with cured beef; jerk pork belly. PRICE Small bites, $4-13; appetizers, $10-17; entrees, $18-30; desserts, $4-10. RESERVATIONS Recommended Opening a Pan-African restaurant in the Meatpacking District doesn’t exactly sound like a sure thing. After all, this is a part of Manhattan where the scene outshines food as a nocturnal crowd ricochets from one nightclub to the next. But chef Marcus Samuelsson has never been afraid to take chances. At Aquavit, he earned praise for a thoroughly innovative approach to Scandinavian fare. With his newest endeavor, Merkato 55, he strives to recast African cooking in an equally modern and prominent light....
Read MoreCommerce
Nostalgic for an old New York. 50 Commerce St., between Bedford and Barrow Sts. (212) 524-2301 Dinner: Mon.-Sat., 5:30 p.m.-11 p.m.; Sun., 5 p.m.-11 p.m. CUISINE: New American VIBE: Charming tavern OCCASION: Neighborhood dining; group dinner DON’T-MISS DISH: Marinated fluke sashimi; red snapper with Thai-inspired herb broth PRICE: Appetizers, $11-19; entrees, $23-44; desserts, $9-16 RESERVATIONS: Recommended Cue the historical relevance of 50 Commerce St.: Nestled on a cobblestone-paved corner in Greenwich Village, this address has seen a Depression-era speakeasy, the 50-year-long run of the Blue Mill Tavern and a quintessential neighborhood haunt, Grange Hall. Did I mention a short-lived restaurant that resurrected the name of the Blue Mill Tavern? If you’ve ever wondered what it was like to dine in the Village in the 1940s, step into Commerce. It’s the newest incarnation of this landmark building. Co-owners Tony Zazula...
Read MoreSapori D’Ischia
A fettuccine worth traveling for. ADDRESS: 55-15 37th Ave., near 56th St., Woodside. PHONE: (718) 446-1500 DINNER: Tues.-Sat., 5:30-11 p.m.; Sun., 3-10:30 p.m. Closed Mondays. CUISINE Regional Italian VIBE Charming market-restaurant OCCASION Destination dining; authentic Italian supper DON’T-MISS DISH Fettuccine al’Antonio; polenta-crusted tilapia PRICE Appetizers, $9.50-$14; entrees, $17-$26; desserts, $7 RESERVATIONS Accepted No ice. No tap water. No cheese on seafood dishes. No lemon peel in espresso. These are just four of the “Ten Commandments” patrons must abide by at Sapori d’Ischia, an Italian specialty market-restaurant in an industrial section of Woodside, Queens. Try requesting butter for the bread; your server may return with a framed set of rules to review before attempting an order. It seems presumptuous for a wholesale store that peddles imported goods by day to enforce such vigilant decrees of dining by night. Especially when...
Read MoreSouth Gate
We have some reservations. ADDRESS:154 Central Park South PHONE: (212) 484-5120 DINNER: Sun.-Thur., 5.30 p.m.-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 5:30 p.m.-10:30 p.m. CUISINE Seasonal American. VIBE Sleek hotel eatery. OCCASION Hotel dining; dessert destination. DON’T-MISS DISH Buttercup flan; flash-seared calamari. PRICE Appetizers, $10-$21; entrees, $24-$39; desserts, $9-$12. RESERVATIONS Recommended. How fitting that South Gate premiered just on the heels of the highly anticipated unveiling of Alain Ducasse‘s Adour. After all, South Gate, and its chef, Kerry Heffernan, were installed to fill the void left when Ducasse vacated the Essex House. While Alain Ducasse’s former restaurant was buried in the rear of the building, South Gate has its own street entrance on Central Park South. With its glitzy glass façade overlooking the park, it’s a radically hip departure from Ducasse’s classically French production. Designed by Tony Chi, the sleek space is embellished...
Read MoreAdour
ADDRESS:2 E. 55th St., at Fifth Ave. (212) 710-2277 DINNER: Mon.-Sat., 5.30 p.m.-11 p.m.; Sun., 5.30 p.m.-10 p.m. CUISINE: Contemporary French VIBE: Elegant affair OCCASION: Fine dining, special occasion DON’T-MISS DISH: Ricotta gnocchi; diver scallops with black truffles; beef tenderloin. PRICE: Appetizers, $17-29; entrees, $32-49; desserts, $14. RESERVATIONS: Required. In recent years, New York has been the thorn in Alain Ducasse‘s side. An exalted French chef, Ducasse has amassed an empire of Michelin-starred institutions, including Le Louis XV in Monte Carlo and his eponymous restaurant at Plaza Athénée in Paris. While Ducasse has conquered much of the globe, his first two Manhattan ventures resulted in defeat and subsequently closed (Alain Ducasse at the Essex House, Mix). Yet he seems more determined than ever to win our affections at Adour, his newest restaurant set in the landmark St. Regis Hotel....
Read MoreZenkichi
A hidden gem in Brooklyn ADDRESS: 77 N. Sixth St.,at Wythe Ave., Brooklyn PHONE: (718) 388-8985 DINNER: Tues.-Sat.,6-11:30 p.m.; Sun., 5:30-11 p.m. CUISINE: Japanese brasserie VIBE: Clandestine speakeasy OCCASION: Romantic date; under-the-radar dining DON’T-MISS DISH: Grilled miso oysters; scallops tempura PRICES: Small plates $5-$14; desserts $6-$6.50 RESERVATIONS: Highly recommended If James Bond were craving Japanese in Brooklyn, I imagine it would look a lot like Zenkichi. An air of mystery and glamour begins at an unmarked wood door on a lonely street corner at the edge of Williamsburg. As you descend a flight of stairs into this three-story labyrinth of corridors, you’ll feel like you’ve stumbled upon some hidden “otherworld” decorated with Japanese lanterns, bamboo and pebble-strewn floors. Diners are escorted to dimly lit wooden booths and secluded from other guests by bamboo shades. There are tabletop call buttons...
Read MoreBar Boulud
Address: 1900 Broadway, near 64th St. Phone: (212) 595-0303 Dinner: Sun.-Thurs., 5-11 p.m; Fri. & Sat., 5 p.m.- midnight; Lunch: Mon.-Fri., noon-3:30 p.m. Cuisine: Contemporary French. Vibe: Bustling wine bar. Occasion: Charcuterie quest; casual UWS dinner. Don’t Miss Dish: Pate grand-mere; braised flatiron steak. Price: Appetizers, $8-$18; entrees, $17-$28; desserts, $6-$12. Reservations: Highly recommended. Chef Daniel Boulud’s new French bistro, which opened across from Lincoln Center, is unlike any other Boulud production. This is the iconic chef’s answer to Manhattan’s demand for informal wine bars. His talent for producing outstanding French cuisine is matched by equally impeccable service (Daniel, Café Boulud). At Daniel (his haute flagship), servers glide gracefully through the dining room. At Bar Boulud, they frantically weave through the narrow quarters, crowded with oenophiles, locals and Boulud devotees. Guests swarm the hostess stand; the less desirable front...
Read MoreCheck out My Book – Try This
