Seasonal Eats: All About Apples

Forget about squash and pumpkins, because when it comes to produce, sweet and crunchy apples are the ultimate harbingers of fall.  After all, who hasn’t gone apple picking in the autumn, bobbed for apples during Halloween, or tucked into a cinnamon-scented, all-American apple pie on Thanksgiving?  With over 7500 varieties of apples worldwide and fifty in New York state alone, it’s a hard fruit to tackle, which is why we’re offering up a crash course in one of our favorite fall fruits!

Harvested from fall to early winter, a whopping 2,500 varieties of the fruit grow throughout the United States.  That being said, a mere 15 of them account for about 90% of the total U.S. apple production, including the highly popular Red Delicious, which has a mellow taste and is suitable for snacks and salads (although not recommended for pies or cooking).  It’s the most widely available of all varieties, and can be purchased year round.  Another good apple for eating out of hand is the juicy McIntosh, which has mixed red and green coloring, or the firm and tart Granny Smith, a reliable all-purpose apple, which can also be used for baking.  Although not as easy to find at the grocery store, it’s worth a trip to the greenmarket (or upstate, to an orchard), in order to get your hands on a bushel of Jonathans, yellow apples with light red stripes and rich, crisp flesh.  And equally suited for snacking on or cooking, the russet-hued Stayman is another farm favorite.  The Newton Pippin is a classic choice for pie or sauces; firm, mildly tart and sweet.  And if you wait to plan your apple picking trip until October, you’ll probably be pleased to find Winesaps hanging from the trees, which are a deep, purplish red, and really do have a tangy, wine-like flavor.

Since they no longer have delicate, summer produce to rely on, hearty apples are already becoming a menu mainstay at New York restaurants.  At Keith McNally’s Cherche Midi, for example, the luscious, Pan Roasted Foie Gras is now accompanied by wedges of caramelized green apple, and slices of buttery brioche.  And at American Cut, Marc Forgione’s steakhouse in Tribeca, the hulking, mineral slabs of Rib Eye, Strip and Porterhouse are preceded by autumnal starters, such as Yellowfin Tuna Crudo with Granny Smith apple, celery root and mustard oil, and sides, including crispy Potato Latkes with gribenes, applesauce and sour cream.

At the chic Mediterranean bistro in Soho, Chicane, you’ll find appealing share plates like Anchois; silvery anchovies marinated in apple cider.  And speaking of cider, the Basque tapas joint, Huertas, has an extensive selection of fruity bubbly, including a traditional “Villacubera” from Amandi, Spain, the crisp and clean “Bordatto Basandere” from Irouléguy, France, an intriguing Long Island Rosé Cider from Wölffer Estate, and “Ciderhaus Freyeisen,” a full-bodied Apfelwein from Franken, Germany.

Oh, and don’t forget about apple cider donuts (our favorite!).  Located in Chelsea market, the sweet smelling bakery, Doughnuttery, makes diminutive, bite-sized cakes… and we bet you can’t eat just one of their warm, Mulled Green Apple Cider donuts, made with fall spices, green apple and orange zest.  And what would autumn be without a sticky Caramel Apple?  Granted, they don’t serve the refined version at the brand new Aldo Sohm Wine Bar on a stick, but it is undeniably delicious; a whole, melted sugar-enrobed fruit, covered with clouds of melting whipped cream.

So, we’ve already established that apples are easy to find right now, but what should you keep in mind when it comes to selection and storage?  For starters, look for apples with unbroken skin, a good color and no soft brown spots.  Because apples continue to ripen at room temperature, refrigerate them in the cold back part of the refrigerator for up to four months.  Although if you plan to eat them soon after purchase, they can be held at room temperature for a few days.

Ever hear the expression “One bad apple can spoil the bunch?”  Well, it just so happens to be true.  An old, wrinkled apple, or one that has been bruised or damaged, will start to release large amounts of ethylene gas.  This can pose a risk to other apples that have not been damaged, and greatly decrease their shelf life.  For this reason, it’s important to handle apples with care, and remove any damaged specimens from groups of apples that have stored in bulk.  To clean apples, simply rinse them under a stream of cold water while gently scrubbing with a bristle brush, to remove any dirt or residue.  When slicing them, remember that the exposed flesh will quickly turn brown, so be sure to sprinkle your apples with a bit of lemon juice, to prevent discoloration.  And to obtain the maximum health benefits from apples, consider leaving their skins on, as they’re unusually rich in nutrients.

Now, especially if you’ve gone apple picking, most of us end up with more fruit than we know what to do with.  So how do you best take advantage of a major apple windfall?  Well, sliced apples freeze well in plastic bags or containers, so you can always store them for later use.  And making big pots of applesauce, butter, chutney or compote (which you can jar and give as gifts to family and friends), is an excellent way to use up pounds and pounds of apples all at one time.  Of course,
making a pie (or three!) is a must, and you can turn your kitchen into a festive state fair by making powdered sugar-dusted apple fritters, apple dumplings, or ooey gooey caramel apples.  Apples are easily added to sweet breakfast and brunch favorites, such as pancakes, muffins and waffles, but remember that apples have an appealing savory side, too.  Saute with onions as a delicious topping for pork or chicken, tuck into sandwiches, such as turkey and brie on whole grain bread with honey mustard, or whip up a gratin by combining with eggs and topping with breadcrumbs and cheese.  Apples also make an excellent addition to spicy curries, soups and stews, as well as all manner of salads and slaws.  And as a healthful alternative to potatoes, slice your apples into thin rings, sprinkle with salt or sugar, and bake into crispy, crunchy chips!

So don’t think twice about loading your fridge with lovely, fragrant fall apples — because they should last you straight until the spring!

Cherche Midi
282 Bowery., at 2nd Ave.
(212) 226-3055
cherchemidiny.com

American Cut
363 Greenwich St., btwn. Harrison & Franklin Sts.
(212) 226-4736
americancutsteakhouse.com

Chicane
430 Broome St., btwn. Crosby & Lafayette Sts.
(212) 226-5999
chicanenyc.com

Huertas
107 1st Ave., btwn. 6th & 7th Sts.
(212) 228-4490
huertasnyc.com

Doughnuttery
425 W 15th St., btwn. 9th & 10th Aves.
(212) 633-4359
doughnuttery.com

Aldo Sohm Wine Bar
151 W 51st St., btwn. Broadway & 8th Ave.
(212) 554-1143
aldosohm.com