Seasonal Eats: The 411 On Meyer Lemons

Spring is undoubtedly one of the most exciting times of the year for produce.  And soon (but not soon enough!), farm stands will be flooded with verdant edibles, like peas, asparagus, green garlic, ramps, artichokes and even fiddlehead ferns.  The only downside is that one of our very favorite citrus fruits is coming to the end of its season, which is why we’re taking a moment to spotlight the delectable Meyer Lemon (one of our all-time favorite foods).

Native to China, Meyer Lemons are a cross between a standard lemon and a mandarin orange.  Nowadays, they’re mostly cultivated in California, and really caught on amongst chefs in the 1970’s, when West Coast luminaries like Alice Waters began experimenting with them at Chez Panisse.  The fragrant and subtly sweet Meyer lemon quickly became a favorite at restaurants all over the U.S., and our current crop of terrific, New York eateries are no exception.

At The Marrow in the West Village, Harold Dieterle uses Meyer Lemon Aioli to add freshness to his signature, meltingly rich plank of Bone Marrow, accompanied by Sea Urchin, Fried Potatoes and Baby Celery Greens.  And at Gabe Stulman’s clubby French bistro, Montmartre, Meyer lemon juice is sprinkled on tissue-thin sheets of raw Fluke Crudo, which happens to pair fantastically with the “3 Hours, 30 Minutes” cocktail, made with Crop Meyer Lemon Vodka, Concord Grape Juice and Vermouth.  Since Meyer lemons marry so perfectly with shellfish, you’ll love the Seared Sea Scallops at Rebecca Weitzman’s Clarkson as well, plated with Romanesco Cauliflower, Capers, and Hen of the Woods Mushrooms.

Meyer lemons are used to equally delicious effect in Brooklyn, like at Marco’s, the popular new offshoot of Franny’s.   You’ll find them fried into shatteringly crisp pinwheels, along with Artichokes, Cardoons and Anchovies in a seasonal Fritto Misto. At Andrew Tarlow’s Diner, there’s Meyer lemon dressing on a simple but exquisite salad of Mixed Greens and Fried Rosemary, and at the committedly farm-to-table spot, Rose Water, Meyer lemon is drizzled on a filet of Sautéed Grouper with Turnips and Melted Leeks, and also integrated into a supple Buttermilk Panna Cotta, topped with a Pistachio Tuile and supremes of tart Grapefruit.

But there’s no need to relegate your consumption of Meyer Lemons to restaurants, since they’re relatively simple to find, and even easier to use.  Meyers tend to be rounder than standard lemons, with thinner skins and a subtle orange hue.  Look for specimens that are plump, unblemished, and heavy for their size, with a deeply yellow color throughout.  They should release a lovely fragrance when you gently rub their skin (or, if you’re lucky enough to find them still attached), their bright green leaves.

Once you get them home, they store well at room temperature for up to two weeks, but keep longer tucked into plastic bags in the fridge.  Not that the perfumey little lemons ever last that long in our house, because the ways to use them are endless.  Since they’re a lot less mouth-puckeringly tart than regular lemons, they’re excellent to use in lemonade (you don’t need to add as much sugar), a pitcher of iced tea, or all sorts of refreshing cocktails.  Whisk the juice into vinaigrettes or mayonnaise, infuse into olive oil, or squeeze over seafood or fish.  Grate the zest into muffin or pancake batter, or over cream-coated pastas or risotto.  Stuff rounds into the cavity of a whole chicken, turkey or duck, or make Meyer lemon curd as filling for the ultimate lemon meringue pie.

And even though their season is coming to a close, there are plenty of ways to make Meyer lemons last the whole year through.  Candy the peel in a simple syrup, cook the segments down into a flavorful marmalade, chop into chutney as a topping for grilled or roasted meats, or even preserve them whole, to use in exotic Moroccan dishes like lamb tagine.  Whatever you do, don’t waste your time and money on standard supermarket lemons until you really need to.  Because you still have a few more weeks left to enjoy sweet and tender Meyers, and just think of how wonderfully they’ll pair with all of that fantastic, start-of-spring produce!

The Marrow
99 Bank St., btwn. Hudson & Greenwich Sts.
(212) 428-6000
themarrownyc.com

Montmartre
158 8th Ave., btwn. 17th & 18th Sts.
(646) 596-8838
montmartrenyc.com

Clarkson
225 Varick St., btwn. S 7th Ave & Downing St.
(212) 675-2474
clarksonrestaurant.com

Marco’s
295 Flatbush Ave.,  btwn. Prospect Pl & St Marks Ave.
(718) 230-0427
marcosbrooklyn.com

Diner
85 Broadway., btwn. Berry St & Wythe Ave.
(718) 486-3077
dinernyc.com

Rose Water
787 Union St., btwn. 5th & 6th Aves.
(718) 783-3800
rosewaterrestaurant.com