Autumn’s Best
Seeing as seasonal and Greenmarket ingredients are this year’s black, the latest menus are wearing autumn’s best and brightest edibles – pumpkins, chestnuts, root vegetables and countless varieties of squash. We thought we’d highlight a few particularly pleasing offerings:
The Orchard – John La Femina’s (Peasant) LES restaurant,
diligently turns out global, seasonally-driven dishes. This time of
year he effortlessly sates with butternut squash agnoletti mingled
with toasted hazelnuts.
162 Orchard Street, (212) 219-8570
Back Forty – Previously the chef at Savoy, chef Peter Hoffman has ventured off on his own at this newly minted East Village spot. Heeding the seasons and Greenmarket at every turn of the menu, Hoffman highlights parsnips with a simple, salty tossing of white anchovy and an aleppio vinaigrette.
190 Avenue B, (212) 388-1990
Momofuku Noodle Bar – Brussel sprouts reach their peak of
flavor in the fall, so it’s prime time for these greens. Even if you don’t have fond memories of this vegetable from childhood, you’ll want to revisit this dish as soon as possible. Here, chef David Chang showers roasted Brussel sprouts with bacon and kimchi puree.
163 First Avenue, (212) 475-7899
Pamplona – A commendable make-under, the restaurant formerly known as Urena
has taken it down a notch to reap the benefits of Spanish bistro fare.
Chef Alex Urena weds suckling pig to an arsenal of autumn’s best: celery
root gratin, chestnut puree and swiss chard.
37 East 28th Street, (212) 213-2328
The Tasting Room – Chestnuts, minus the open fire and paired
with sweet, tender butterfish, are served sauced and savory at this
Nolita establishment.
264 Elizabeth Street, (212) 358-7831
Frankie’s Spuntino – Instead of wrapping yourself in a
blanket and staying in when the weather turns cold, treat yourself to
the culinary equivalent: tender pillows of squash and yam ravioli
swimming in fragrant Parmesan broth dotted with chestnuts and sage.
17 Clinton Street, (212) 253-2303
Public – With more nods to fall flavors than you can shake a
stick at, Public’s butternut squash soup is garnished with spiced
marshmallows, crispy chickpeas and pumpkin seed oil.
210 Elizabeth Street, (212) 343-7011
Chocolate Room – Though chocolate’s most visible month remains
in February, there is no turning down a creamy pint of chocolate stout to
warm up a chilly fall evening.
86 Fifth Avenue, Park Slope, (718) 783-2900
Chubo – For its body heat-inducing spice (as well as its
likeness to golden foliage), curry can be especially satisfying as the
year nears its end. Chubo employs this Indian seasoning in their
curried pumpkin-green apple soup.
6 Clinton Street, (212) 674-6300
Savoy – Here, the quintessential autumn vegetable – pumpkin – in all its
sweet, gilded splendor, makes an unspoiled appearance in a velvety pumpkin soup, simply topped with croutons and chives.
70 Prince Street, (212) 219-8570
Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
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