Gourmet Gossip: February 2014

In this great dining city of ours, barely a day passes without news of an exciting new restaurant opening, a devastating closing, a shocking chef shuffle, or a groundbreaking, must-try dish.  That’s why we’re keeping you apprised of the industry’s most noteworthy bits and bites, from Drew Nieporent’s new plans for the Corton space in Tribeca to Andy Ricker’s machinations at Pok Pok Ny in Brooklyn and Elizabeth Falkner’s flight from Corvo Bianco on the Upper West Side.

Drew Makes Moves: Paul Liebrandt has gotten plenty of press about his life after Corton (he moved to Brooklyn, to make elevated Chicken Kiev and Fish & Chips at The Elm in the King & Grove Hotel).  But what about his former partner, veteran restaurateur Drew Nieporent?  Well, he’s finally announced plans for the old Tribeca space, which will open as another fine dining venture, Bâtard, in the spring.  Nieporent is teaming up with John Winterman (who used to run the front-of-house at Daniel) and Marcus Glocker, former chef de cuisine at Gordon Ramsey at the London.  The food will be sophisticated French, but more “user friendly” (according to Nieporent) than Corton’s, and complement the offerings from the extensive wine cellar (the name Bâtard references the Montrachet wines of Burgundy).

Fair-weather Falkner: It seems that San Francisco pastry chef-turned celebrity chef-turned New York transplant, Elizabeth Falkner, just can’t sit still.  After making her highly anticipated debut at Brooklyn pizza parlor, Krescendo last year, she departed in just months, after a stream of less than glowing reviews (the chef cited creative differences).  She landed at the higher end Corvo Bianco on the Upper West Side, but after receiving similarly lukewarm feedback, has jumped ship yet again in order to concentrate on her ongoing culinary partnership with the Holland Cruise line.  We guess it’s a lot harder for critics to get to you when you’re in the middle of the Indian Ocean.

Round the Clock Pok Pok: Andy Ricker can’t stop making adjustments to his Pok Pok dynasty in Brooklyn.  In recent months, he’s opened the first East Coast outpost of Whiskey Soda Lounge, moved his flagship eatery, Pok Pok Ny, just a few doors down on Columbia Street, transformed the old location into an events space, added a takeout option, and installed webcams in order to inform potential customers of wait times.  And now, he’s begun all-day weekend service at his critically acclaimed restaurant, offering a full menu of cocktails and food from noon to 10:30pm.  Because it’s never to early (or late) for fish sauce-slicked Chicken Wings and Drinking Vinegar-based libations.

Super Foods: Thai-guru Andy Ricker isn’t the only one making waves with Asian cuisine.  Wunderkind Jason Wang (who owns the wildly popular Xian Famous Foods), already oversees seven locations of his Silk Road-inspired Chinese restaurant; four in Manhattan, two in Queens, and one in Williamsburg, Brooklyn.  And that’s just the tip of the iceberg for the tireless 25-year-old.  Expect Biang Biang Noodles, Lambs Face Salads and Xian Burgers to hit the Upper East Side by this summer, with outposts in the Financial District, Hell’s Kitchen and Chelsea yet to come.

Brotherly Love: Could the Poiarkoff’s be making a play for the Sussman’s spot as New York’s favorite culinary brothers?  The two Brooklyn boys (John took over for Angelo Sosa at The Pines, and Mike is the new executive chef at Vinegar Hill House) are joining forces at Hillside on February 27th, for a one-night-only dinner showcasing their combined talents. Tickets are $65 each for the four-course feast, which will include dishes, like Monkfish with Hearts of Palm and Aged Beef Tartare with Kimchi.

Broken Glass: Even though Glasserie in Greenpoint is just 7-months-old (and in an industrial, out-of-the-way location), chef Sara Kramer was heralded by many as one of the best new chefs of the year.  That’s why it’s especially surprising to learn that the former Blue Hill and Reynard toque has parted ways with the restaurant, and plans to remain a free agent for the time being.  Noma’s Eldad Shem Tov has been hired to take over for Kramer; we just hope she left behind her recipe for Rabbit Three Ways with Flaky Flatbread.