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Spring Dishes on the Rise

Prospect's Strawberry and Rhubarb Foie Gras

Prospect’s Strawberry and Rhubarb Foie Gras

As Sohui Kim, chef and owner of The Good Fork in Red Hook eloquently put it, “Spring is when I can stop pretending to be excited about cooking with root vegetables.”

And while there’s actually a lot to love about parsnips, kale and brussels sprouts, we have to agree.  After months of eating fruits and veggies that have spent the winter in cold storage, we’re more than ready for the fresh, green goodness that spring has to offer.

It’s still a bit early in the season (ramp mania has yet to hit its peak), but plenty of restaurants are already showcasing glimpses of spring’s bounty from the Greenmarket.  We scouted out a vibrant Spring Pea Soup at Market Table, Spring Garlic Risotto at Craft, and Strawberries and Rhubarb sweetening Foie Gras at Prospect in Fort Greene.  Like the first crocus poking through the earth, dishes like these are a sure sign that spring is here to stay!

Mas (farmhouse’s) Mascarpone Cheesecake with Lemon Thyme Gelee

Mas (farmhouse’s) Mascarpone Cheesecake with Lemon Thyme Gelee
39 Downing Street
West Village,New York 10014
(212) 255-1790

Desserts can provide just as appealing a canvas for a bountiful spring harvest.  And we’re loving the selection of seasonal sweets at Mas (farmhouse), Galen Zamarra’s Provence-inspired eatery in the West Village.  Pastry chef Maritza Aranda transforms tart Rhubarb into both a Compote and a Sorbet, accompanying White Chocolate Mousse with Star Anise Shortbread and Fennel Seed Brittle.  But our favorite sweet on the spring menu right now is a dreamy Mascarpone Cheesecake with intensely fruity Huckleberry Compote,  an herbaceous Lemon Thyme Gelée, and Meyer Lemon Honey Sorbet — the sweet essence spring on a plate.

Craft’s Spring Garlic Risotto

Craft’s Spring Garlic Risotto
43 East 19th Street
Flatiron District,New York 10003
(212) 780-0880
Cuisine:

Tom Colicchio has a reputation for letting the ingredients speak for themselves at his popular Flatiron restaurant.  In true Craft style, you can order “Fish or “Meat” (either simply roasted or braised),  “Vegetables” (roasted, sautéed or pureed), or choose from an assortment of Salads, Pastas, and Grains.  It’s a pretty wonderful way to experience spring produce, shining in straightforward dishes, like Wild Arugula and Lemon Salad, Sweet Pea Agnolotti, Roasted Spring Onion, Sautéed Swiss Chard, or best of all, Spring Garlic Risotto, which beautifully showcases the wonderfully aromatic, mild flavored member of the onion family.

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Prospect’s Foie Gras Terrine with Early Spring Strawberries

Prospect’s Foie Gras Terrine with Early Spring Strawberries
773 Fulton Street
Brooklyn,New York 11217
(718) 596-6826

Although the chefs at this new Fort Greene restaurant have a penchant for molecular gastronomy and fussy plating, pristine, seasonal ingredients are at the heart of everything they do and that’s what matters most to us.  Look for a decadent, Hudson Valley Foie Gras Terrine, brightened by delicate Spring Strawberries, tangy Rhubarb, and a Pine Nut Cake (not a dessert, by the way), as well as Pan-Roasted Black Bass with Stinging Nettle Buttermilk Nage and Edible Blossoms & Herbs.  Oh, and we suggest you hurry if you want to snag a taste of spring’s most fleeting treasures – Prospect just got in a shipment of Morel Mushrooms and Fiddlehead Ferns!

Anella’s Homemade Burrata with Shaved Asparagus and Radish

Anella’s Homemade Burrata with Shaved Asparagus and Radish
222 Franklin Street
Brooklyn,New York 11222
(718) 389-8102

Chef Todd Andrews must get up awfully early in the morning in order to score such an impressive Greenmarket bounty.  The menu at this Greenpoint spot boasts a terrific Asparagus Soup with Lemon Gremolata, Goat Cheese Crème, Artichoke and Fennel Salad, Tagliatelle with Morel Mushrooms and English Peas.  Lest we forget their impossibly creamy Homemade Burrata, served with Shaved Asparagus, Mache, and crispy Spring Radish.  And no matter the season, we always feel cheered by a loaf of Anella’s Housemade Bread, baked and served in a terra cotta flowerpot.

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Rouge Tomate’s Seahorse Gin Cocktail with Pickled Ramps

Rouge Tomate’s Seahorse Gin Cocktail with Pickled Ramps
126-128 W. 18th St.
Chelsea,New York 10011
(646) 237-8977

There are few restaurants that manage to walk the fine line between health and deliciousness, but Rouge Tomate does just that.  We can thank pedigreed chef Jeremy Bearman (who worked at L’Atelier De Robuchon & db bistro moderne), as well as the in-house nutritionist for that.  Spring is the perfect season to experience Rouge Tomate’s holistic approach to both cooking and eating, with naturally good-for-you herbs and vegetables at the forefront.  Start with a bowl of Stinging Nettle and Leek Soup, accompanied by Seasonal Toasts topped with Cauliflower, Spring Garlic, Lemon, Chili, and Bottarga, or English Peas, Charred Romaine, House-made Ricotta, Lemon, and Mint.  Looking for an even more enjoyable way to up your intake of greens?  Order “The Seahorse Gin” cocktail, made with Nori, Horseradish Granité, and Ramps (the season’s most sought-after wild onion)  or the “Green Spring,” infused with Fennel, Basil, Lime, Lavender Honey, and Passion Fruit Foam.

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Applewood’s Dayboat Scallops with Rhubarb Puree and Pea Shoots

Applewood’s Dayboat Scallops with Rhubarb Puree and Pea Shoots
501 11th Street
Brooklyn,New York 11215
(718) 788-1810

This seminal Park Slope restaurant doesn’t just advocate farm-to-table dining.  Owners Laura and David Shea put their money where the mouth was in 2012 by actually buying a farm upstate to grow their own damn produce and even proteins.  Applewood Farm currently supplies much of what you’ll find on the menu, including pork, chicken, eggs, and of course, a wealth of herbs and vegetables.  Since the menu changes daily, it’s hard to predict what you’ll find, but recent offerings, like a Poached Organic Egg with Pickled Ramps and Mustard Jus, and Pan Seared Rhode Island Day Boat Scallops with Rhubarb Puree and Pea Shoots, all but assure a season of delicious eats.

Mercer Kitchen’s Chilled Artichoke with Lemon and Chervil

Mercer Kitchen’s Chilled Artichoke with Lemon and Chervil
99 Prince Street
Soho,New York 10012
(212) 966-5454

 ABC Kitchen may be known as Jean-George’s “seasonal” restaurant, but that doesn’t mean the fare is any less Greenmarket-friendly at his other ventures.  The bi-level Mercer Kitchen, tucked inside the Mercer Hotel, offers a bird’s eye view of the kitchen, which is currently turning out a variety dishes that just scream spring.  Think Sweet Pea Soup with Vegetables and Croutons, Organic Salmon with Creamed Fava Beans, and Grilled Lamb Chops with Shell Beans and Leeks.  And since we love Artichokes but hate having to clean them, we’re particularly pleased to see this elegant appetizer — Chilled Artichoke with Mustard Mayonnaise, Lemon, and Chervil (a delicate French parsley).  If you’re itching to escape the looming cold, tuck into Mercer Kitchen for a tasty peek at spring.

Market Table’s Spring Pea Soup

Market Table’s Spring Pea Soup
54 Carmine Street
West Village,New York 10014
(212) 255-2100

It only makes sense that Mikey Price’s charming West Village eatery has the jump on spring ingredients – they sell many of them in their adjoining shop.  But before engaging in a little edible retail therapy, grab a table at one of the floor-to-ceiling windows, overlooking the corner of Bedford and Carmine.  The components of a Spring Salad with Sweet Gem Leaves, Shaved Spring Veggies and Snap Peas look like they were plucked from a field only moments before, and a vibrant Spring Pea Soup with Purple Basil is a feast for the eyes as well as the stomach.  For dessert, there’s Tangerine and Pear Sorbet, or even better, Orange Blossom French Toast with Wild Huckleberry Sauce, which is worth a visit on its own.

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