Q & A with Danny Abrams

There are few restaurateurs as seasoned as Danny Abrams.  He has successfully opened some 15 restaurants, bars, and clubs since he got his start as a busboy and roller-skating waiter.  And did you know his brother, Steve Abrams, owns the Magnolia Bakery empire?  Apparently it runs in the family.  Many of his ventures are still thriving today, including Smith’s and The Mermaid Inn as well as The Harrison and The Red Cat, now run by former partner Jimmy Bradley.  How does he do it?  Abrams’s answer: “I think I worked hard, hired people smarter than myself, and was open to all feedback.” 

It seems like everyone’s branching out to the Upper West Side these days, but Abrams foresaw the UWS restaurant rush early on.  Rarely does a restaurant concept travel from downtown to uptown so well, but The Mermaid Inn is just as popular on 88^th and Amsterdam as it is in the East Village.  Abrams just has a knack for launching approachable restaurants with good food, service and atmosphere.  When people crave reasonably priced seafood, they eat at The Mermaid Inn, where they’re serving pan-roasted codfish with ham hock risotto, mustard greens and red wine sauce and sautéed skate wing with wild spring greens and garlic brown butter.  At Smith’s, Abrams and partner Cindy Smith focus on seasonal American fare, like ramp risotto with Meyer lemon, parmesan and mushrooms, and sea scallops with sweet peas, sugar snaps and tarragon.  What’s next for this veteran restaurateur?  Maybe another Abrams classic and maybe it’ll be uptown…

Single/Married/Divorced?

In a serious relationship.

What did you want to be when you grew up?
Happy.

What was your first job in food?
I worked as a busboy when I was 13 in a neighborhood Italian restaurant called Cairo’s. My first server job was a roller skating waiter at the Saloon opposite Lincoln Center.

Once upon a time you were partners with Jimmy Bradley, but have since parted ways.  Why the split? My partnership with Jimmy was wonderful. We opened several great restaurants together and I have nothing but great things to say about our time together.  People change and want to do different things.  I think it’s part of the process.

Most people don’t know your brother, Steve Abrams, has quite a bit of success in the business as well. He launched the original Magnolia Bakery, quickly becoming an expanding empire.  Were you brought up in the business?
No, but we were raised to be very entrepreneurial.  Steve’s had quite a few businesses before Magnolia and I’ve had 12 restaurants, bars and clubs. 

Do you and your brother ask each other for advice?
Not really. We have different strengths and different styles.  That said, we’ve united our businesses for a fun new promotion: on Monday nights at The Mermaid Inn, we offer mini magnolia cupcakes (Magnolia Monday) in the place of our usual chocolate pudding dessert.  It’s great to be able to work together in creative ways.

How hands-on are you? Do you convey a specific vision to the chefs at both Smith’s and The Mermaid Inn? Or do you let them do their own thing?
I’m pretty hands-on regarding the front of the house. I like to give the chefs a little direction but I always say let the experts do what they’re experts in.

You opened on The Mermaid Inn on the Upper West Side slightly ahead of the flock of other restaurateurs. How’s it doing?
The Mermaid uptown is doing great. I lived up there for about 15 years and had several businesses up there so it was kind of like a homecoming. I know a lot of people in the neighborhood so it’s fun. The Mermaid is the perfect neighborhood restaurant. People were literally starving for new restaurants, pardon the pun.

What is your favorite dish on the menu at Smith’s?  Ditto the Mermaid Inn?
At The Mermaid, I’m a big fan of the whole fish. I always enjoy a simple grilled piece of fish with some lemon and fresh vegetables. At Smith’s, I love the chicken and grits. Very unique and flavorful.

What’s your least favorite at each restaurant (and yes, you must pick one)? 
I am just not a sardine person. Anytime there are sardines on the menu at The Mermaid, I never eat them.  At Smith’s there is a spring vegetable entrée that just is not my style.

Other than your own, what are your favorite restaurants? 
I always love to go to Raoul’s in Soho. You can’t argue with the classics.  And I love Franny’s in Brooklyn.

What culinary trends do you wish would just die already?
I’m not that excited by a lot of the new trends, any molecular gastronomy or foams.   I’m more of a simple food done extremely well kind of guy. 

Any new projects on the horizon? Kindly spill the beans…
I would love to open a Mermaid Inn on the Upper East Side. I think we would fit in well up there and people would be very receptive.  While we don’t have a space or immediate timeline, the time is definitely right.

The Mermaid Inn
Phone: (212)799-7400
Address: 568 Amsterdam Ave. nr. 88th Street

Smith’s
Phone: (212)262-0100
Address: 79 Macdougal St., nr Bleecker St.