Seasonal Eats: Asparagus

Although ramp mania is still at its peak, we wanted to give another scrumptious spring veggie its due: Asparagus.

A perennial garden plant belonging to the lily family, asparagus is harvested in the spring when it’s 6 to 8 inches tall.  Asparagus have fleshy spears topped with bud-like, compact heads, with a sweet, buttery taste and a tender texture.  And while the most common variety of asparagus is green in color, three other edible varieties are available.  There’s delicately flavored white asparagus, which is grown underground to inhibit its development of chlorophyll content (in other words, making it green), therefore creating its distinctive white coloring.  It’s generally found canned, although you may find it fresh in some select gourmet shops, and it is generally more expensive than the green variety, since its production is more labor intensive.  Another type of asparagus is purplish in hue, much smaller than the green or white variety (usually just 2 to 3 inches tall) and has a somewhat fruity flavor. And you might think of wild asparagus as cultivated asparagus that has escaped into the wild so to speak, growing along fences, sunny ditches and the like.   While it’s sadly easier to find this yellow-green wild version in France and Europe-at-large, you can find some gloriously delicately thin and crunchy spears in states, like New Mexico and Iowa.

Now that asparagus is officially in season (which generally lasts from late April to early July), New York restaurants are eagerly adding it to their spring menus.  We’ve spotted the savory spears at the new, Lower East Side eatery, Rosette, where chef Nick Curtin roasts them whole in his wood oven, and pairs them with Wild Spring Onions and crunchy Hazelnuts.  Alex Guarnaschelli favors the white variety at her Midtown outpost of Butter, simply scattered with toasted Slivered Almonds, and former Lafayette chef Blake Shumpert also showcases shaved, white spears at 1200 Miles in Flatiron, incorporated in a toothsome salad with Serrano Ham Cracklings, Lemon-Truffle Dressing and Frisee.

Rucola in Brooklyn is also featuring a fantastic spring salad on their menu, made with Roasted Asparagus, Barley, Salsa Verde, Radish and Aged Goat Cheese.  And since asparagus pairs perfectly with pasta, you’re bound to find options all over the city; we’re currently loving Michael White’s Fazzoletti (shaped like handkerchiefs) at Osteria Morini, dabbed with Sheeps Milk Ricotta and strewn with Asparagus and luxurious Morels, as well as the Asparagus Risotto at Park Slope pioneer Al Di La, plated with plump, Seared Sea Scallops.

Unlike our previously featured “seasonal eat,” ramps, asparagus are a cinch to find, both in farmers markets and at grocery stores.  Especially the green kind, although you may spot white asparagus either sold canned (yuck) or fresh in select gourmet shops.  When choosing asparagus, look for stalks that are firm and rounded, not withered or twisted, with deep green or purplish closed tips.  The cut ends shouldn’t be excessively dry or woody.  Store in the refrigerator with the ends wrapped in a damp paper towel, and use within a day or two of purchasing.  Thin asparagus doesn’t require peeling, although you’ll probably want to shave thicker asparagus stems because they’re usually tough and stringy.  Remove the outer skin of the bottom portion of the stem (not the tips) with a vegetable peeler, and wash asparagus under cold water to remove any sand or soil residue.

There’s really an endless number of ways to use asparagus, but here are a few of our favorites.  Simply steam in a pan of shallow, boiling water, and finish with a drizzle of olive oil or butter, and a squeeze of lemon (steamed or raw asparagus are also super delicious served with dip or hollandaise).  Cook asparagus in a foil poach with a splash of wine and fresh herbs, and place in the oven or over a barbecue, or sauté with butter and onions and puree in a blender with vegetable stock and cream for a terrific soup.  Bake in the oven topped with a layer of cheesy breadcrumbs and pancetta, or make the ultimate spring salad with frisee, gently cooked asparagus spears, crumbled bacon, and a runny poached egg.  You can layer spears of asparagus in an omelet or on top of a pizza or tart to delicious effect.  And as we said, asparagus makes a delightful addition to any risotto or pasta dish, bathed in a simple lemon (may we suggest Meyer lemon?) and butter sauce, and finished with fresh, shaved Parmesan cheese.

So get out there and enjoy asparagus season!  The delicate spring delicacy may stick around longer than ramps, but it’s only a matter of time before we’re again sadly confronted with those woody, exorbitantly priced, California-grown bundles in the supermarket.

Rosette
171 E Broadway., btwn. East Broadway and Pike St.
(212) 933-1176
rosettenyc.com

Butter
415 Lafayette St., btwn. 4th St and Astor Pl.
(212) 253-2828
butterrestaurant.com

1200 Miles
31 W 21st St., btwn. 5th and 6th Aves.
(212) 510-8722
1200milesnyc.com

Rucola
190 Dean St., btwn. Hoyt and Bond Sts.
(718) 576-3209
rucolabrooklyn.com

Osteria Morini
218 Lafayette St., btwn. Kenmare St and Cleveland Pl.
(212) 965-8777
osteriamorini.com

Al Di La
248 5th Ave., btwn. President St & Carroll Sts.
(718) 636-8888
aldilatrattoria.com