Seasonal Eats: Sunchokes

For a vegetable that not many people have heard of, the Sunchoke sure has a lot of names. Jerusalem Artichoke.  Sunroot.  French Potato.  And they’re all rather misleading, as the knobby little tubers are neither from Jerusalem or France, not to mention they’re not related to artichokes or potatoes.  So what gives?

Originally cultivated in North America, the botanically named Helianthus Tuberosus springs from a perennial flower that looks like a small, yellow sunflower.  One theory is that “Jerusalem” is a corruption of the Italian “Girasola,” meaning “turning toward the sun;” a reference to the sunflower.  And they certainly do look like small, gnarled potatoes (although they’re crunchier, sweeter, and contain no starch), and have a slight taste of artichoke.

But no matter how they’re labeled in stores or on restaurant menus, there’s no doubt that the Sunchoke has become a tremendously popular winter vegetable amongst chefs.  At the just opened Telepan Local in Tribeca, you’ll find them shaved raw into a Salad and topped with a Mushroom Vinaigrette.  And at Flatiron standby, Gramercy Tavern, chef Michael Anthony incorporates Sunchokes into a hearty winter entree with Pork Chops, Apples, and Hazelnuts. Farm-to-table favorite, ABC Kitchen, also pairs Hazelnuts with Sunchokes, although they whole-roast their tubers in a wood oven first, and sprinkle them with fresh Herbs.  And sure, you can order Potatoes to accompany the succulent Chicken at Rotisserie Georgette, but Sunchokes make an equally delicious and infinitely more interesting side, plated with caramelized Cauliflower Steaks and Golden Raisins.  And you’ll find Sunchokes used two ways at Mayfield in Brooklyn; reduced into a Cream Sauce for Ricotta Gnocchi and studded with Prosciutto, Rutabaga and Truffle, or pureed into a delicate Soup, topped with Peekytoe Crab Salad and a touch of fragrant Curry Oil.

Since Sunchokes are so incredibly versatile, they’re also well worth experimenting with at home.  Whether you’ve found them in the supermarket or at a farm stand, choose smooth, unblemished and firm tubers with a minimum of bumps.  Avoid those with wrinkled skins, soft spots, blotched green areas, or sprouts.  And handle Sunchokes with care, as they bruise easily. Depending on how long they have been sitting at the market, Sunchokes can be stored from one to three weeks in a cool, dry, and well-ventilated area away from light. They can also be stored in the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator, wrapped in paper towels to absorb humidity, and sealed in a plastic bag.  Before eating or cooking, scrub the tubers thoroughly with a vegetable brush.

Peeling Sunchokes can be difficult due to their protuberances and isn’t really necessary since the peels are perfectly edible.  However, if you must peel them (i.e. in order to make a nice, clear soup) slice off the smaller bumpy areas and remove the skin with a vegetable peeler. Sunchokes are actually quite tasty raw, either sliced into salad, shredded into a slaw, or served along with dip as part of a crudite platter.  Since they resemble water chestnuts in texture and flavor, Sunchokes also make a lovely addition to stir-fries.  They can be steamed or boiled, and then pureed into a soup, used as a sauce for shellfish or meat, or seasoned and mashed, as a delicious substitute for potatoes.  You can even fry them into addictive, crispy chips.  Although our absolute favorite method for Sunchokes is roast them whole.  Simple and simply delicious.  Just toss them in a bowl with a little extra virgin olive oil and place on a baking sheet.  Set the oven temperature to 375 and bake for 30 to 45 minutes, turning them halfway through, and season with salt, pepper, and woodsy herbs like thyme or rosemary to taste.

However you choose to prepare Sunchokes (or whatever you choose to call them), one thing’s for sure… the sweet and crunchy tuber should absolutely have a place on your seasonal shopping list!

Telepan Local
329 Greenwich St., btwn. Duane and Jay Sts.
(212) 966-9255
telepanlocal.com

Gramercy Tavern
42 E 20th St., btwn. Broadway and S. Park Ave.
(212) 477-0777
gramercytavern.com

ABC Kitchen
35 E 18th St., btwn. Broadway & S Park Ave.
(212) 475-5829
abckitchennyc.com

Rotisserie Georgette
14 E 60th St., btwn. Madison and 5th Aves.
(212) 390-8060
rotisserieg.com

Mayfield
688 Franklin Ave., btwn. Prospect and Park Pl.
(347) 318-3643
mayfieldbk.com