Our Favorite “In-Between-Season” Eats
It’s officially spring alright, but the weather doesn’t seem to reflect that right now. Take this week, when it was 60 degrees and sunny one day, and 15 degrees and windy the next. And restaurant menus are similarly in flux, with root vegetables and heavy sauces often appearing alongside bright, fresh asparagus and tender fava beans. That’s why we’ve rounded up some of our favorite In-Between-Season eats (dishes with one foot in winter and one in spring), like the Kale, Wild Mushroom and Artichoke Paella at Gato in NoHo, the Sweet Potatoes with Citrus and Pea Tendrils at Brucie in Brooklyn!
Gato
Bobby Flay’s buzzy NoHo newcomer may be labeled as Bolo 2.0 (his beloved Spanish spot, which shuttered back in 2007), but the menu’s influences span the Mediterranean this time around. Which means you’ll find Lamb Sausage and Mint-topped Pizzas and Charred Beef with Broccoli Rabe Farro alongside what’s quickly becoming one of his signature dishes; a traditional Spanish Paella interspersed with musky Kale and Wild Mushrooms, and topped with newly seasonal Crispy Artichokes and a runny farm Egg.
Read MoreNarcissa
Chef John Fraser sources many of his ingredients from owner Andres Balazs’ upstate farm, making his dishes an excellent barometer for what, precisely, is in season. For example, sturdy, cold-resistant Spaghetti Squash and buttery Golden Beets are used as a base for plump Maine Scallops, but they’re flavored with delicate and fragrant Green Garlic, one of the earliest (and most fleeting) signs of spring.
Read MoreMargaux
The recently restored Marlton Hotel (once a favorite of Beat poet Jack Kerouac), is now home to the chic, “Eastern Mediterranean” Margaux, currently thrilling fashionistas and the art world elite with elegantly composed, frequently vegetable-focused dishes. In fact, the Farmer’s Board looks very much like a painter’s canvas; bright swipes of Red Quinoa Tabouli, Kale Harissa, Spicy Smashed Sweet Potato, Avocado Hummus, and Beets flavored with Grains of Paradise, meant to be mopped up with Buckwheat Crackers.
Read MoreOtto
The seasonally changing Vegetable Antipasti selection (only $6 each) is always a favorite at Mario Batali’s Otto, and right now, it accurately reflects our fluctuating, inconsistent weather patterns. Hearty Brussels Sprouts and Vincotto, Roasted Beets and Saba, and Spicy Broccoli Rabe with Ricotta Salata are perfect for a cold day, but welcome bouts of sunshine have us craving the snappy Radishes with Bagna Cauda instead, as well as Asparagus with Pecorino, Artichokes with Fregola, and English Peas dotted with salty wads of Prosciutto. Lest we forget the seasonally minded bruschetta here, too.
Read MoreBlack Tree
Black Tree may specialize in sandwiches, but they’re as in tune with what’s good at the greenmarket as any fine dining restaurant. And one of our favorite “farm-to-table” selections is the riotously colorful Root Vegetable option; a Ciabatta cradling Black Bean Patties layered with an edible rainbow of purple Carrots, meaty Rutabaga, and Kohlrabi and Turnip mash. You can even make your sandwich “epic” by adding a Farm Egg, Bacon, or wads of milky Burrata for $7. Yes please.
Read MoreBrucie
This adorably quirky gourmet grocery shop cum Italian trattoria is a beloved neighborhood staple. Before you tuck into your rustic slab of Lasagna, nubby Tortellini with Tuna, Meyer Lemon and Sage, or Duck Sausage Porchetta with Brussels Sprouts and Luxardo Cherries, enjoy an intriguing Sweet Potato appetizer that really embodies the in-between season. The cold weather tuber is flavored with Winter Citrus, a smattering of silky Pea Tendrils, and a dollop of Lime Aioli.
Read MoreEl Born
Inspired by Barcelona’s hip El Born district, this stylish and intimate new tapas parlor is an excellent fit for Greenpoint in Brooklyn. Start your meal with a selection of sexy “Pica Pica” (small plates), like Cod Fish Collars with Green Peas and Squid Ink Aioli, Toasts topped with Artichoke, Manchego Cheese and Filet Mignon, and crispy little Croquettes with Goat Cheese, Pine Nuts and Mint, which taste solely like spring, until you dip them in a wintery, cinnamon-scented Apple Compote.
Read MoreBevacco
One of the few noteworthy restaurants in Brooklyn’s tony Brooklyn Heights (what’s with that, anyway?), this sunny, marble and tile-outfitted trattoria excels at freshly made pastas. And the chewy ribbons of hand-rolled Pappardelle are the essence of spring (almost), tossed with crunchy spears of Asparagus and an earthy White Lamb Ragu.
Read MoreCheck out My Book – Try This
