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The Summer’s Best Sweets

18-gabriel-kreuther-pineapple.w600.h400As tempting as it may be, you probably shouldn’t eat ice cream every day of the summer.  And not for health or diet reasons mind you, but because it would be a shame to miss out on other (non-frozen) and equally delicious seasonal sweets, from the Rhubarb Custard at Wildair, to the Cherry Kuchen at Virginia’s and okay, the expanded menu of ice cream cakes at Parm (we said not every day!).

Wildair

Wildair
142 Orchard St
Lower East Side,New York 10002
(646) 964-5624

The eclectic Lower East Side spot, Contra, became very known for its inventive desserts, courtesy of co-owner and critically acclaimed pastry chef Fabien von Hauske.  And while the selection of sweets at the team’s second act, Wildair, is brief to say the least, you’ll still be hard-pressed to choose between supple spheres of Rhubarb layered with custard, the velvety Chocolate Hazelnut Tart, and bouncy Panna Cotta tinged with smoky maple.

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Parm

Parm
248 Mulberry Stret
Nolita,New York 10012
(212) 993-7189

They’ve proudly served tri-colored wedges of ice cream cake at this ode to 1970’s-style Italian-American specialties for years, but this summer, they’ve decided to expand their menu 12 times over.  So come hungry (or with up to 14 friends) if you want to tuck into one of the massive, $58 creations, in flavors like Grasshopper (mint chocolate chip and marshmallow), Peach Melba (peaches, raspberries and vanilla bean), Firecracker (cherry, lemon and blue raspberry), and Pina Colada, featuring pineapples and coconut.

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Gabriel Kreuther

Gabriel Kreuther
41 W 42nd St
Midtown West,New York 10036
(212) 257-5826

The Modern’s longtime chef, Alsace-born Gabriel Kreuther, has finally opened his own, eponymous restaurant in the sleek Grace Building, overlooking Bryant Park.  And his Rhine–inspired dishes are as eye-catching as ever, including the collection of evocatively-named desserts, like “Ethereal,” featuring pineapple and a green apple sphere with herb-infused sorbet, “Comfort,” roasted apricots and pistachio mousseline with ten flavor sorbet, and the appropriately-dubbed “Fantasy,” guanaja Chantilly and olive oil chocolate sponge cake with kirsch sorbet.

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Virginia’s

Virginia’s
647 East 11th St
Alphabet City,New York 10009
(212) 658-0182

Charlie Trotter’s and Roberta’s alum, Lauren Calhoun, has been tasked with constructing the menu of comforting, yet highly artistic desserts at Alphabet City newcomer, Virginia’s — think Baumkuchen (a ring-shaped German cake) made with apricot, anise hyssop and cherry, Raw Honey Panna Cotta, daubed with rhubarb compote and crowned with rye biscotti, and Black and White Sable, featuring cocoa nib mousse and pistachios.

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Kajitsu

Kajitsu
125 E 39th Street
Murray Hill,New York 10016
(212) 228-4873

You’ll only have from July 29th through August 2nd to try the Kakigori at Kajitsu; Japanese shaved ice, flavored with green tea or rhubarb syrup, and topped with mochi and red beans.  But even after the five-day pop-up — headed by the Kyoto confectionary, Nakamuraken — is over, it’s still worth leaving room for dessert at the zen, shojin eatery; set meals regularly include Grilled Kuzumochi (chilled sweet cakes) with adzuki beans and coconut, and an assortment of intriguing, imported Japanese candies.

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Sessanta

Sessanta
60 Thompson St
Soho,New York 10012
(212) 219-8119

Although he’s opened most of his projects with longtime partner, Josh Capon, John McDonald recently debuted this collaboration with Mercer Street Hospitality and chef Jordon Frosolone, inside of the Sixty Soho Hotel.  The Southern Italian spot serves homey dishes, like Sausage Meatballs, Roasted Branzino, Anchovy Tortelli and Eggplant Timbale, followed by desserts such as Cannoli with ricotta cream, Rhubarb Crisp with vanilla anglaise, and Chocolate Budino with candied cashews.

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Willow

Willow
506 Franklin Ave
Bedford-Stuyvesant,New York 11238
(718) 399-2384

Like its big Brooklyn sister, The Pines, this Bed Stuy gem offers reliably inventive, but eminently craveable fare — from Fava Beans with lamb xo sauce and Boar Belly with kohlrabi, apricots and snap peas to Yogurt Semifreddo with beet sauce, Lemon Poppy Shortbread with blueberries, and Frozen Chocolate Mousse with cherries, fennel and hyssop for dessert.

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Bar Bolinas

Bar Bolinas
455 Myrtle Ave
Clinton Hill,NY 11205
(718) 935-9333

Considering chef Nate Smith (The Spotted Pig, Allswell) has partnered with top pastry chef, Sophie Kamin, in work as well as life, you’d be well advised not to skip dessert at their newest venture, the SoCal-styled Bar Bolinas.  Entirely without pretention, Kamin’s sweets never sacrifice flavor for fussy presentation; think rustic Cherry Peach Crumble, swiped with fennel custard, a moist, kelly-green wedge of Pistachio Cake, laked with rich coco noir, and Candy Cap Ice Cream; infused with musky, tender-headed mushrooms!

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