Gourmet Gossip: January 2016

In this great dining city of ours, barely a day passes without news of an exciting new restaurant opening, a devastating closing, a shocking chef shuffle, or a groundbreaking, must-try dish.  That’s why we’re keeping you apprised of the industry’s most noteworthy bits and bites — from a female-fronted establishment recently launched in Midtown to a major about-face at the tony EMP.

EMP Changes Course: Eleven Madison Park may be one of the city’s most elite fine dining restaurants, but they rarely rest on their laurels.  In fact, Daniel Humm and Will Guidara have decided to ditch their long-format, New York-inspired menu for a system akin to Rao’s — structuring dishes based on what each customer feels like eating, and alternating individually-portioned courses with larger, family-style plates.  Let’s just hope tables don’t become as impossible to score at EMP as they famously are at Rao’s.

Deep Dish: Top Chicago restaurateur, Brendan Sodikoff, recently applied for a liquor license in the West Village, which means a favorite Windy City establishment could be headed to NYC.  Sodikoff’s lengthy list of projects include a barbecue place, a steakhouse, a donut joint and a wine bar, although we’re crossing our fingers for a Big Apple outpost of Au Cheval; a chic diner whose burger has been ranked amongst the best in the United States.

Surprise Steakhouse Shutter: Having already made news for partner Ahmass Fakahany’s angry open letter to Pete Wells, the Altamarea Group has tongue wagging again; this time, for the surprise shutter of their Spring Street steakhouse, Costata.  That being said, they haven’t declared defeat as they’re currently looking for alternate locations for a possible relaunch of the restaurant, and are still offering delivery through the highly curated service, Caviar.  Ribeye, filet and White Label burgers from the comfort of your couch?  Sure beats pizza and cheap Chinese!

Cornering the Market: Call Gabe Stulman the king of the West Village.  The prolific restaurateur already has five establishments — Fedora, Bar Sardine, Joseph Leonard, Montmartre and Jeffrey’s Grocery — situated on cozy corner spots in the tight-knit neighborhood, and a recent decision to relocate Perla will bring him his sixth.  Slated to open on West 4th St. (in The Windsor’s former space) the first week in March, the slightly rejiggered concept will include a lower priced menu, lighter fare, lunch and brunch service, an affordable wine list, and an altogether more intimate, relaxed atmosphere.

Poppin’ Bottles: The hotly anticipated Bottle & Bine just opened in Midtown — an all-American wine and beer bar, fronted by three (female!) industry heavyweights.  Asiate’s executive chef, Angie Berry, oversees the food program, which features locally-sourced offerings, like Tuna with nori mustard and mushrooms, Game Bird Terrine with spiced quince, and Sea Trout with roe and salsify, Carolyn Pincus (who created the award-winning beer list at the Stag’s Head) has assembled an impressive list of American brews, crafted everywhere from Brooklyn to Freeport to Kalamazoo, and Gina Goyette, former beverage manager at Little Park, has taken charge of the wine list, which includes by the glass options, like Bedell Cellars Brut Rose from North Fork, Long Island, and a Riesling/Gewurtzraminer blend from Oregon’s Willamette Valley.

Remembering Gina: Talk about a tragic loss for the restaurant industry. Gina DePalma — one of the most beloved and respected pastry chefs in the business — passed away from ovarian cancer last week.  She got her start at Chanterelle and Gramercy Tavern, then went on to serve as opening pastry chef at Babbo (where she remained for 15 years), and was as unilaterally admired by critics as she was utterly adored by her peers.  Our sincerest condolences go out to DePalma’s friends and family.  She will be deeply missed.