Gourmet Gossip: September 2016
In this great dining city of ours, barely a day passes without news of an exciting restaurant opening, a devastating closing, a shocking chef shuffle, or a groundbreaking, must-try dish. That’s why we’re keeping you apprised of the industry’s most noteworthy bits and bites — from a duo of museum-based eateries from the Estela team, to a surprise donut-centric debut courtesy of Wylie Dufresne.
Time to Make the Doughnuts: Now here’s an unexpected next chapter for wildly inventive wd-50 and Alder chef, Wylie Dufresne. In addition to serving as consultant for the upcoming fast-casual Indian spot, SoHo Tiffin Junction, he recently revealed on Twitter that he’ll be joining Andrew Carmellini and crew at the upcoming William Vale Hotel in Williamsburg, with his very own project called Du’s Donuts and Coffee. Although knowing Dufresne, we’re certainly not anticipating your average cappuccinos and breakfast pastries — and we’re excited to see what riffs he has in store for his favorite ingredient; eggs.
Shake and Make: It seems that everyone has a cookbook these days, so why not Danny Meyer’s intensely successful fast food franchise; Shake Shack? Dorothy Kalins — who also wrote the Gramercy Tavern tome — will help bring the stories behind the little burger stand that could to life, and culinary director Mark Rosati and CEO Randy Garutti are also on board; and tasked with translating formerly top secret recipes for patties, fries, hot dogs and concretes to the home kitchen.
At the Museum: Move over Michael Anthony and Danny Meyer; Thomas Carter and Ignacio Mattos are the biggest new players in museum dining. The Estela and Café Altro Paradiso duo have signed on to open two different restaurants within the Met Breuer museum on the Upper East Side. A tad more casual than Untitled, Flora Bar will serve “daring” vegetable and seafood-focused lunch and dinner menus, while Flora Coffee will offer light, all-day fare with a free and funky “downtown spirit.”
Go Shorty: Ever pondered the genesis of sesame noodles? Thank Shorty Tang, the proprietor of New York’s seminal, long-shuttered Hwa Yuan restaurant, whose peanut butter and sesame paste-bathed pasta has spawned countless imitators over the years. And his legacy is about to be revived by none other than his son, Chen Lieh Tang, who apprenticed for years under his famous father. Not only does the next-generation Chinese food guru intend to open a dedicated noodle shop, named — what else — Shorty Tang Noodles — he’s also resurrecting his dad’s original, opulent, three-floor eatery on East Broadway, featuring private rooms, a raw bar, and an open kitchen turning out Orange Beef, Beggar’s Chicken, Carp in Hot Bean Sauce and Peking Duck.
Mo’ Mimosas: With the surplus of boozy brunch spots in the city, it’s hard to believe that — due to an anarchic, Prohibition-era law — New Yorkers have actually been unable to get their hands on alcohol before noon. Until now. Starting this weekend, Governor Cuomo’s so-called “brunch bill” will finally go into effect, allowing restaurant patrons to rise, shine, and throw back bellinis with unregulated abandon as early as 10am (or even 8am, at eateries that apply for special occasion permits!)
Get in My Belly: September is always an especially hot month for food festivals, but you might want to consider renting a room in Williamsburg for a while. Not only will Taste Talks (and its All-Star BBQ) return to the waterfront this weekend, but Taste Williamsburg Greenpoint will follow suit the ensuing Sunday, with bites from a Brooklyn’s finest (think Delaware & Hudson, Lilia, Pies n’ Thighs and Maison Premiere). And the Great Big Bacon Picnic will return to the Pfizer Factory the weekend after that, with pig-centric snacks from Fette Sau, BarBacon, Cow and Clover and more!