Q & A with Bryan Calvert
Bryan Calvert is a family man – he named his restaurant after his great-grandfather and followed in his footsteps as a chef. He also works really close to home – in fact, right below his Prospect Heights apartment.
He runs and owns James with his wife and business partner Deborah Williamson. It’s their first restaurant together. An alumni of Union Pacific, Calvert worked for several years at Bouley. Factor in being a private chef for Annie Liebovitz and owning an catering company and you’ve got a thriving restaurant.
When the seasons permits, he freshly snips herbs from his own garden before and after service to work into his menu. It’s winter in New York, so we’ll have to wait til it warms up to eat from his herb garden on his rooftop. Right now, there’s crispy sweetbreads with Hubbard squash, truffles, and Port reduction as well as seared salmon with leek stew, and black Trumpets on the menu. And for dessert, order Calvert’s signature grilled lemon almond pound cake served with blueberry ice cream.
Single/Married/Divorced?
Married, to my business partner.
What did you want to be when you grew up?
I’ll have to think about that. I guess I always wanted to be a chef since I was 14 or 15. At one point I wanted to be an environmental scientist, but cooking felt natural to me. I always fell back to it.
What was your first job in food? What did you learn?
I was a dishwasher in a Korean restaurant. I was the only white American who also happened to speak English. I learned the importance of hard work, but I didn’t want to be a dishwasher all my life. Still, I was able to save up enough money to buy a bike, and I still have it today.
What are the pros and cons of living above your own restaurant?
There are definitely a lot of pros – it’s a great commute for one – between brunch and dinner shifts I’ll head upstairs to watch football, take a nap, etc.. I’ve been in the neighborhood for 15 years, and it’s really grew with me. However, there are a few cons. I’m here all the time, so it’s hard to detach myself from work.
You were famed photographer Annie Liebovitz’s private chef. How did you land the job? How does it compare to your work in actual restaurants?
I had been working with Rocco DiSpirito and I wanted a sabbatical, a break. I was referred to Annie, who was looking for someone to cook for a few weeks, about three. After that was over she asked if I’d like to cater her photo shoots, and that was the beginning of my own catering business. It’s a great experience because you work alone – at the same time, you’re working with yourself *laughs.* I prefer working in my own kitchen, because it’s mine, whereas when you’re a private chef, you’re working in someone else’s.
Tell us what you have growing in your herb garden.
Well right now, nothing, because it’s winter. However, it’s 800 square feet on top of a 4 car garage that I own the roof of. I took advantage of an actual open space in New York City – really the whole neighborhood is a gardening community. I grow here what I can’t buy – I have fifteen kinds of basil, lovage (which is hard to get), sweet marjoram, lemongrass, Vietnamese cilantro, rosemary…I sometimes grow peppers I’ve pretty much stuck with herbs. I also grow some lettuces like arugula, fennel – I enjoy doing it. I believe that if one works with food, they should appreciate how things are grown.
What do you like to do in Prospect Heights?
Considering this is a rather residential area, I visit Prospect Park, bike, work on my twenty year old truck. It’s a great area to just walk around in. For food, I like Geido sushi nearby.
What inspired you to name the restaurant after your great-grandfather?
Well, James is my middle name. I liked his story – he came from Scotland in 1850 and was a chef. While working as a private chef, he met his wife Annie. They opened a restaurant and were pretty successful. My family’s very big on the story. Really, to name it James…it just made sense. Plus the building was built at around the same time he arrived, which made it even more appropriate.
When you look back on your time at Union Pacific, what would you do differently now that you have your own place? What measures have you taken to prevent James from going down the same road as Union Pacific?
Well I think I left at a really good time when the restaurant was doing well, so I’m not exactly sure what transpired. But what I will say is that I’ve learned about all of the important things that go into making a restaurant successful. Focus on amazing food and good service. Have attention to detail, and be consistent all the way through.
What have you taken from your catering company, Williamson Calvert?…
I learned to be a little humble. In restaurants, it’s you who formats the menu. With catering, you have to adapt to the taste of your clients. One has to be flexible within certain constraints.
Out of curiosity, who makes the desserts for James?
I do. I learned about it mostly from Union Pacific. I see the ability to do so as the icing on the cake.
What is your favorite dish on the menu at James?
I really like the salmon. Interesting, great flavor profile, original, and a good value. I also love the sweetbreads. My mother was eating sweetbreads when she went into labor with me – so I think it’s inherent within me to love them.
What is your least favorite (and yes, you must pick one)?
The menu is constantly changing, so if there’s something that I’m not crazy about it’ll already be gone. But, I guess the chocolate molten cake, only because it’s sort of a standard. But it’s still very popular.
What culinary trends do you embrace?
The Slow Food Movement. However, I’m not totally crazy about absolutely local all the time because it’s very hard. So in going along with that, I won’t sacrifice quality for the sake of being local. I try to be transparent in that sense. Also, things like truffles, olive oli and mushrooms, I’m getting from Europe, not here.
What culinary trends do you wish would just die already?
Gastro molecular cuisine. I respect it, but it’s not my style. I think it’s great for a once a year, special occasion type dinner. My style is more down to earth and familiar.
Favorite junk food?
Tater tots. That and onion rings, a chocolate milkshake and a bacon tomato grilled cheese sandwich at a diner.
What’s on the horizon for you? Spill the beans…
I’d like to open up a very fine dining restaurant in Brooklyn. And then a Mexican restaurant.
Address: 605 Carlton Ave. (at corner of St. Mark’s Ave.)
Park Slope, Brooklyn
Phone: (718) 942-4255
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